how do i install spacers?

got my spacers today have no idea how they go in. They are 2 inches am i going to need to mod anything with the drive train since i am going up another 2 inches. and which one is which

None of those look like they allow the shock to mount through. I've never seen spacers like that. Mine had big holes in the middle for the shock to mount through down up the axel. I'd be willing to bet the solid ones are for out back.

Turf wrote:

None of those look like they allow the shock to mount through. I've never seen spacers like that. Mine had big holes in the middle for the shock to mount through down up the axle. I'd be willing to bet the solid ones are for out back.

thats because the D2 shocks mount loop style on the perch the cut out is for the half of the loop to sit down in..

Anyway - JT I dont mean to bust your chops but why are you going 2" taller? Brett told me he was trying to put a set of spacers under his D2 and it was not easy - cant remember if he even got them in there or not.

Will you need anything else on a 4" lifted D2.. The answer is YES. But you wont know till it's all together and tested.

You asked so here it is Unless you are trying to fit 33's+ it's not worth it. Lifting your truck that much without corrective radius arms is going to effect your steering. It's going to wander and you'll probably get bump steer too.

Here is an example of what I mean... The more lift you have the more negative castor you create until you are essential turning on an pretty extreme angle.


This is why guys with 3+" lifts opt for castor corrected radius arms or castor corrected swivels on d1's rrcs d90s etc.

Second is pinion angles. In the rear you have a rotoflex but basically it is supposed to work on a standard double u joint shaft plane like this - The transfer case and diff should be on the same angle.


However without correction in the rear on a massive lift your pinion angle will INCREASE because the arms are staying the same length BUT the truck's frame height is getting taller. Which means you will either need to A - lengthen the arms (custom trailing arms) or B get a double cardon REAR drive shaft similar to the front on a d2. OR the chances of you having a vibration are pretty high - here's a pic of a DC shaft on correct angle



Those are the two things you should be aware of.. Also you will be increasing your center of gravity which means it will most likely be a little more tippy feeling on the trails.

But if you're gonna fit 33's+ I say GO FOR IT!!! But otherwise I dont think it's worth risking how smooth your truck drives now for a little extra height.

I've been drinking so I'll bite my tounge.Jake,please help this young lad.

devildog01 wrote:

I've been drinking so I'll bite my tounge.Jake,please help this young lad.

and he has an atlantic british catalog on is desk.. There is no hope left.

i had a suspicious it would take more work that jack & jack stands. but everytime i search a forum I get some jack offs 1/2 page signature. Eventually i'll get to 33's (the route I am going now that my truck is paid off is hd running gear). I might hold on to these for a little and try to build a truck like the D2 in random b.s. hahaha thanks for the info. It was mail day for my rover today, and whats wrong with Atlantic British

jveen wrote:

i had a suspicious it would take more work that jack & jack stands. but everytime i search a forum I get some jack offs 1/2 page signature. Eventually i'll get to 33's (the route I am going now that my truck is paid off is hd running gear). I might hold on to these for a little and try to build a truck like the D2 in random b.s. hahaha thanks for the info. It was mail day for my rover today, and whats wrong with Atlantic British

The only reason its hard is because the lower perch angle and the spring angle are going to be off by like 45*..

Atlantic British is the most over priced company in the rover business hands down.

Here is a pic of my truck after wedge spacers 1.25" on high side 9/16" on the other - added to 1" spacers and TF 2" springs. Id say maybe a bit over 4" all together.

Axle is off the ground a bit but you can see how much fender clearance I have even with 35's and no trimming (yet)



Gonna add another inch in the rear and lengthen my trailing arms another 1/4" just to balance it out

4" is a LOT of lift on a disco. I am not going any higher than that. I will trim even more off and fit 37's later

looked into it the money and time needed to get them to work it isn't worth 2 more inches. I'll resell them and try to get my money back. thanks for the all of info Jake saved my the head ache of an install and eventual removal. Atlantic Brit. is expensive but they have the cheapest price for those plastic headlight sockets that break if you look at the lights the wrong way. If anyone is intrested they are up on d-web