high idle delema

ok so I have a high idle condition, checked linkages, vacuum leaks, swapped the tps and iac

after reading a ton of threads from google search seems the only fix is to goto a dealer and pay to have the base idle reset in the ecu

are there and shops in south jersey with this capability or do I have to goto rover in cherry hill?

yes you need to reset the adaptions (closed throttle)
if you have an off brand battery or one of those red/yellow tops
replace it with an interstate or die hard or you'll be resetting it again
Chris from 5 corners in Long Branch may or may not be able to reset it
I'm not sure what capabilities his scanner has,
https://www.facebook.com/5CornersAutoRepair

just blew 177 at dealer they could not reset idle and said they could not get my spare remote to program

my ultra gauge only displays the 1447 code but the said it has

1447,0446,0451,0443,1508,0122

said they could diagnose for another 112 per hour  

I am guessing something got wet and will not dry since it rains every day

whats the deal with the battery? had this batt since I owned it like 4 years seems fine

get yourself one of those cheap or free testers from HF so you can check the voltage on the battery. isnt 1447 the purge valve? fuck i hate that code....gas cap, purge valve, rusted out fuel neck?

I have the ultra gauge hooked in it is a code reader and can clear do not know why these are not displaying just the 1447 and it is purge changed it still there but I do have pressure when I take off the gas cap some times guess I need a gas cap

they gave me a printout of the codes and what they are for there are like 3 that are for purge/gas tank pressure

then tps low voltage and iac open guessing these codes were set when I had the plugs off key on claimed they would not clear

I can look at the ultra gauge and see streaming data the tps is working correct, the maf, intake temp, coolant temp, O2 all appear fine, I plugged in the iac off the motor and had dad turn on the key it did the self check in out and is clean along with the throttle body and iac needle seat

what am I checking batt voltage for? I am running at 13.7 volts +/- and no problems cranking

not trying to be a smart A@# just want it fixed

if it persists when I return home next week I will pull the cover for gas sendor and unplug ael read somewhere that worked for a guy see if it is part of the prob and check the vss since that according to rave can affect rpm speedo does work it is 5 fast though

if I make it to a u pull and get a ecm I read I also need the alarm ecu? if so where is it located?

Tom, I'm not really sure why the battery causes this to happen, it just does.
It either spikes a higher, or low voltage when cranking the ecu then mistakenly reads
the learned closed throttle value to a higher or lower value. this in turn locks the stepper
motor to a fixed open value and the idle then races or will not compensate when the a/c is
on. a battery that is 4 years old should be replaced.
If you get the adaptions reset it just gonna happen again.
Unfortunately the dealer you went to probably doesn't have many/or any techs that know this.
nor do they really want to work on this old shit.
Doesn't mean they're not good techs, but just that they may only know the newer stuff.
You can just swap the ecm, BUT you then need to relearn the security immobilization AND closed throttle, which you'll need the t4 or a capable scanner.
fuel tank pressure fault could be just a plugged vent hose for the tank pressure sensor.

I now have eandering idle and tps 5.24/12.2. Ideas?