Parts question - Rear pinion flange.

Hey all, my roto donut is in decent-ish shape, but i figured id replace/eliminate it anyway because im dumb with money.

So in my effort to eliminate the donut, i was considering going to a 4bolt conversion, but someone recommended bputah.com had a 3 bolt version, so i went on their site and I ordered part number STC3723B from BPutah.com and was pretty sure its the right part. But when i called the next morning to confirm all they said was "yeah. im not possitive but im pretty sure thats it"... so, now im a little concerned that its not right (being that i want to put it on this weekend).

Does anyone know if this is the right part? the picture LOOKS like it is because of the shaft length and what appears to be a spacer but their site has no description, just a picture.

Thats the right part if you plan on keeping the rotoflex. Thats not the right part if your wanting to go to a 2 joint driveshaft. The only way that I know of puting a regular ujoint shaft in youll need a 4 bolt flange just like whats on your front diff.

Long Haul wrote:

Thats the right part if you plan on keeping the rotoflex. Thats not the right part if your wanting to go to a 2 joint driveshaft. The only way that I know of puting a regular ujoint shaft in youll need a 4 bolt flange just like whats on your front diff.

just what i feared.... looks like that will be going back then.

If you have a pic an pull close to you D1 and D2 take the same flanges on the front diff as your looking for. I might have one on a spare 3rd member but im in Florida or Id look for you.

You need STC3722B to go with a regular ujoint shaft.

Long Haul wrote:

If you have a pic an pull close to you D1 and D2 take the same flanges on the front diff as your looking for. I might have one on a spare 3rd member but im in Florida or Id look for you.

i've actually got one right down the road from my work and i've even seen what looks like a D1 in there.

should i just pull the whole rear shaft and the flange off the front?

My shaft is in fine shape, idk why im so hellbent on getting rid of the rotoflex but for some reason i just feel like it.

Most D1s had the rotoflex except 97-99 they had the ujoint shaft. If it has a ujoint shaft in the rear the flange is the same as the front. The RRC SWB flanges and shaft will work for you also.

Long Haul wrote:

Most D1s had the rotoflex except 97-99 they had the ujoint shaft. If it has a ujoint shaft in the rear the flange is the same as the front. The RRC SWB flanges and shaft will work for you also.

thanks for the info. i read somewhere that you need a spacer to run 4 bolt/2joint flange on the d2, do you know anything about this? i cant really see why you would need one, but after ordering the wrong thing already, i dont want to do it again.

Some do need a spacer behind the 4 bolt flange some dont. I have D2 diffs in my D1, the one I tore apart had a spacer in it the other didnt and they both came out of the same truck I know I have spacers at home there nothing mutch more the a piece of pipe that goes around the pinion shaft about 1/2" or so long. As far as on the driveshaft itself I dont think you would need any kind of spacer since they are both the same wheelbase.

Heres the spacer i was reffering to http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/539745.cfm
Like i said I think its hit an miss weather youll need it or not.

Long Haul wrote:

Some do need a spacer behind the 4 bolt flange some dont. I have D2 diffs in my D1, the one I tore apart had a spacer in it the other didnt and they both came out of the same truck I know I have spacers at home there nothing mutch more the a piece of pipe that goes around the pinion shaft about 1/2" or so long. As far as on the driveshaft itself I dont think you would need any kind of spacer since they are both the same wheelbase.

yeah thats the spacer i was refering to.

here we go ... looks like i'll just do it this way, should be able to peice it together without spending a fortune. i was going to get a complete kit from lucky8 but for 225 shipped i couldnt stomach it.

i had a link, but i cant post an external link for a few more days... its on discoweb. start to finish instructions.

Yea some of the flanges are long enough and some need the spacer. When I converted I used a spacer with the flange I had.

See my link in the tech section about centering pin

How much lift do you have? Unless you're over 3", you'll be fine with the rotoflex. Just buy a new genuine one, install it, and keep the old one as a spare. You can buy extra spare for less thandeep the cost of converting, and they're relatively easy to swap them out.

durt d1ver wrote:

How much lift do you have? Unless you're over 3", you'll be fine with the rotoflex. Just buy a new genuine one, install it, and keep the old one as a spare. You can buy extra spare for less thandeep the cost of converting, and they're relatively easy to swap them out.

I'm at 2.5" . I've thought about what you're saying, and have found donuts for as low as 30bucks and a spicer one for like 45-50. So you're right, for the cost i could probably buy 2 new spicer units, keep my slightly worn but still very usable donut and have 3 for the price of one...

like i said in the original post, im shitty with money lol. If something can be "upgraded" i just cant resist. I think I just like to tinker with things... before this I had a 600hp pontiac gto, and in my "off time" from real cars i spent a small fortune on RC cars and helicopters ... its just nice to have something to do.

but you're absolutely right, and you're not the first person to tell me this, i just have to unclog my ears and take good advice when it comes... I think I'll go a donut for now, and work on assembling a driveshaft in my "free time" down the road.

i need ur job.

I upgraded mine when I got to 3". Mostly because I got the 4 bolt flange with my set of 1" spacers for $20. And picked up the drive shaft from Brian for next to nothing.

Jake wrote:

I upgraded mine when I got to 3". Mostly because I got the 4 bolt flange with my set of 1" spacers for $20. And picked up the drive shaft from Brian for next to nothing.

thats the thing, im thinking i may want to go to 1" spacers and get rid of the 1/2 inchers that i have.

I guess it matters the size of tires you run and the travel/flex of suspension. Goal should be run big ass tires and not rub under articulation. Going sky high with out longer shocks is recipe for disaster..

someone on Landroversonly is PMing me that he'll send me the whole kit for $100 shipped. If its legit i'll probably take him up on it, if its not, then I'm going donut and staying with my 2+in and 265s

apatrizzi wrote:

someone on Landroversonly is PMing me that he'll send me the whole kit for $100 shipped. If its legit i'll probably take him up on it, if its not, then I'm going donut and staying with my 2+in and 265s

Do you have 265's now? It's your best bet to stay where you are and invest in armor if you dont have it already. Unless you're shredding roto's or getting vibes you might as well just leave it. If you're going bigger than 32's you'll need to regear if you plan on driving it on the high way.. Anything more than 2" and 32" tires = big $$

Jake wrote:

apatrizzi wrote:

someone on Landroversonly is PMing me that he'll send me the whole kit for $100 shipped. If its legit i'll probably take him up on it, if its not, then I'm going donut and staying with my 2+in and 265s

Do you have 265's now? It's your best bet to stay where you are and invest in armor if you dont have it already. Unless you're shredding roto's or getting vibes you might as well just leave it. If you're going bigger than 32's you'll need to regear if you plan on driving it on the high way.. Anything more than 2" and 32" tires = big $$

yep i'ver got 265s now on a 2" OME lift with 1/2inch columbia overland spacers on the front I was planning on gears in the future anyway. But most likely I'll stay in the 32 range, maybe bigger down the road, but these tires are brand new so i've got a while.

I'd like to go diff guards and rock sliders for sure. i've got a front bumper, and will prob leave the rear bumper stock. also considering some kind of Tcase skid.

maybe instead of pouring money into it, i should just get out and wheel it more lol. these days 100 bucks buys a fair ammount of gas.

Diff guards, sliders, HD tie rods maybe a gas tank skid. Fwiw I've never seen anybody hit a t case.

I would get a rear bumper before a belly skid. I think there is only one company actually producing belly skids right now. considering its 530 in the morning.. I don't remember who sold it.

I need to get out and wheel it more. I have yet to have it on any kind of rocks. i only got it about 6 months ago. so its been a lot of maintenance, repairs and "preparation" . I've had it out in the pines a bunch but theres not a rock for miles (i looked bc i needed wheel chocks).

I'd like to tackle Rausch sooner than later, but waiting on my buddy to get his jeep together is putting a serious delay on it. Plus im still sorting things out a little myself, i dont want to get up there and break something instantly and be 3 hours from home.