Questions About a Disco 2 Lift

So, thanks to Ed's magical ABS reader I have my amigo problem sorted out and I still have a few buck laying around. I am thinking that it is time to get my Disco up in the air. I am looking for about 2" and I will probably end up running 32's.

I was looking at kits and I see two main contenders; Terrafirma 2" and the OME 2". I had an OME setup on my D90 and I loved it but it seems that in the 6 years since I sold it Mr. Emu has tacked about $250 onto the price of his kits. For the money ($500 for Terrafirma v. $750 for OME) the Terrafima seems to be the winner. Anyone running the Terrafirma setup have any problems with it? I can't see the OME kit being 1 & 1/2 times better then the TerraFirma.

I could also just get the springs from RTE and get my own shocks but kits are convenient. Also, should I be looking at a spacer to keep the rear level? At 2" the brake lines and sensors seem to be fine but if they are not I guess I should factor that in too. When I save a bit more I am going to get a slimline bumper/winch so I am ok if the springs up front are higher for a while.

Any thoughts or experiences would be helpful. Thx.

I run the TF 3" kit and have had it since late 2010 (approx 30k miles). It's been great and these guys can tell you I beat the crap out of my truck. Zero problems (*knock-on-wood*) to date.

Did you need to switch out the rotaflex for the 3"?

No. I ran mine until last summer when I did the u-joint rear drive shaft conversion. You'll wear them out faster, especially off-road, but keep a couple used spares handy and it's no big deal.

Hmmmmmm...well now I am thinking about a 3 inch lift. I am originally from the south so I am predisposed to go with overly high lifts. Also I am sexually attracted to big tires.

Hey, I always say go big or go home. I got the 3" kit because the 2" wasn't available yet. I've never regretted that extra lift.

IMO I think 2" isn't big enough if you're going to wheel at places like Rausch Creek, The Cove, and AOAA...

Ok. Did you relocate the shocks? I am asking because I am a really shitty welder. One more question; are you running 32's or something bigger? I am wondering about drive shafts if I go up to 285. BTW thanks for talking through this with me.

Edit- By relocate the shocks I mean modify/weld/replace the front towers.

CRUm wrote:

Ok. Did you relocate the shocks? I am asking because I am a really shitty welder. One more question; are you running 32's or something bigger? I am wondering about drive shafts if I go up to 285. BTW thanks for talking through this with me.

Edit- By relocate the shocks I mean modify/weld/replace the front towers.

Nope.  No changes to the shock towers.

 I'm running BFG KM2 255 85r16's, that are listed as 33", but which actually measure out (new) at closer to 34".  One of my friends is running 285's with the stock drive shafts and hasn't had any problems, but his truck is only daily driver when mine breaks down and he lends it to me.

 IMO, your bigger concern with a 285 is going to be stress on the diffs, axels, and CV's.  I've broken a CV on the trail...it isn't fun to replace in the field.

if i were you i would go with the Heavy Duty 2" Terrafirma kit from Justin at Lucky 8. then get a 265/75/16 mud terrain of skinnier 32" tire on a spare set of 16" rims that you can pick up cheap from paul grant or randy williams.

dcarr1971 wrote:

 IMO, your bigger concern with a 285 is going to be stress on the diffs, axels, and CV's.  I've broken a CV on the trail...it isn't fun to replace in the field.

All of that is drive line which I should will eventually upgrade. Dcarr1971 got me thinking about a 3". If a planetary gear or a CV joint is gonna go because of a 59lb tire it seems it would go with a 54lb tire just as likely. If you told me that as soon as it went up 3" your rotaflex exploded and your driveshaft twisted like a bendy straw then I would worry.

So this is what I am thinking; I bought this truck for a song and a used high mileage regular cab pickup so I cant see getting anything for it in 3-4 years. So it seems that the only chance to get any money for it is as a trail rig. I am figuring to keep it as mostly a daily driver for the next year then start transitioning it to a trail rig. For instance I am going to buy steelies now, ride em for 2 years, then weld beadlock rings on them when I get another truck to drive to the mall in. So I don't want to bolt anything on now that I will need to replace when it becomes off road only. I'll re-gear when I put lockers in but I got no idea what to do about a CV, short of putting a Dana 60 front and rear.

Seems like a 3" terrafirma (costs the same as a 2") and a set of cheapo 265's are the way to go for now. Good for light trail riding and about time that the tread starts to go I can upgrade to a 33+" tire. I know that there are 25,000 similar threads on every single Land Rover message board, so I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me think through it. I just don't want to be pissed in a year and a half because I bought the wrong parts before I knew what I was doing.

i wheeled one of my d2's stock and one with a 2" tf lift. the one with the lift and 32" tires i wheeled for 2 years without breaking anything in the driveline. you'll realize that dave breaking things is common, doesnt matter what truck or setup he has! he's heavy on the skinny pedal, all the time. lol... $5 says he breaks something at rovers on the rocks next month.

CRUm wrote:

All of that is drive line which I should will eventually upgrade. Dcarr1971 got me thinking about a 3". If a planetary gear or a CV joint is gonna go because of a 59lb tire it seems it would go with a 54lb tire just as likely. If you told me that as soon as it went up 3" your rotaflex exploded and your driveshaft twisted like a bendy straw then I would worry.

The difference in weight isn't necessarily what destroys the Diffs, CV's, etc...  It's more the difference in traction and the torque you're putting on the components.  Specifically when you are in a situation where one wheel is spinning and then suddenly catches traction. This shock loads the components and can quickly snap a CV, Diff (usually the cross pin or gear), or even an axle. (Ask me how I know...)

CRUm wrote:

...So this is what I am thinking; I bought this truck for a song and a used high mileage regular cab pickup so I cant see getting anything for it in 3-4 years. So it seems that the only chance to get any money for it is as a trail rig. I am figuring to keep it as mostly a daily driver for the next year then start transitioning it to a trail rig. For instance I am going to buy steelies now, ride em for 2 years, then weld beadlock rings on them when I get another truck to drive to the mall in. So I don't want to bolt anything on now that I will need to replace when it becomes off road only. I'll re-gear when I put lockers in but I got no idea what to do about a CV, short of putting a Dana 60 front and rear.

Seems like a 3" terrafirma (costs the same as a 2") and a set of cheapo 265's are the way to go for now. Good for light trail riding and about time that the tread starts to go I can upgrade to a 33+" tire. I know that there are 25,000 similar threads on every single Land Rover message board, so I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me think through it. I just don't want to be pissed in a year and a half because I bought the wrong parts before I knew what I was doing.

There's one flaw in your thinking IMO...adding off-road bits never adds value to the vehicle.  Anyone who knows trucks will take that as a sign the vehicle has probably been wheeled hard and will expect the price to reflect that.  If you do realize any return on the parts you plan to bolt on, it's never anywhere near what you've paid for them...
Case in point, bead locks are cool, but probably not a good investment for the vehicle you're building.  There aren't many D2's out there being off-roaded here in the US with them today.

As for re-gearing and how to address the rest of the drive-line, Lucky 8 LLC sells an Ashcroft CV/axle (front and rear) kits for $1150 that you won't break with any set up that you've seen discussed anywhere in this thread...

Oh, and everything Ed said about me is true. I've never done as much damage as he has, but I wouldn't recommend taking that bet with him.
 

yeah I'm with Dave on that. you won't need beadlocks unless you plan on running 35"+ and there is no real need on a Land Rover. these are not jeeps. There are only a handful of trucks running tires that big.

Thanks for all the help. You two gave me alot to think about and I feel like I have a pretty good plan now. Thanks again.

2"TF springs +2 TF shocks 265/75/16 . If you want big tires buy a jeep or be prepared to empty your bank account.

devildog01 wrote:

2"TF springs +2 TF shocks 265/75/16 . If you want big tires buy a jeep or be prepared to empty your bank account.

Meh

An update to close out this here thread- I talked to Eric at Lucky8 and got a Terrafima kit. TF052 in the front and TF027V in the rear with Terrafirma +3 HD shocks. Sits about 3" higher then before, but I haven't measured on level ground yet. I just put the it in over the weekend. After driving it for a bit I am stoked. I thought the HD springs would be harsh until I got bumpers but the ride is smother than before. The old springs/shocks were pretty fatigued and I guess I was just used to bouncing around. I haven't gotten tires yet, but I am leaning towards Maxxis Bighorn M/T 762's in 255/85r16's. In a week are two I am going up to a buddies farm upstate for a bit of light wheeling and we'll see how the new set up does.

Awesome! Now post a pic!

Before...

After...

The drive way is crazy unlevel, and there is a deep rut that was dug by the mud tires on my previous truck under the drivers side, so that is why it is sitting cockeyed.

AWESOME! what are you going to do about the sway bars?

Looks good.  Now put some MTs on it and kiss the front and rear bumpers goodbye.  

I'm running the same lift, with 255 85 KM2 tires.  FWIW, if I was doing it over again, I'd probably have gone with a 285 75 instead.  (I'm not sure you can do that with those wheels unless you pick up wheel spacers though.  My steel wheels are offset...)

Dump the rear sway bars too...

Tires first then disconnects. Then bumpers, then CV's, then axles, then a driveshaft, then bigger brakes, then a jet pack. I might not make it all the way through the list but I am gonna try.

dcarr1971 wrote:

 (I'm not sure you can do that with those wheels unless you pick up wheel spacers though.  My steel wheels are offset...)

I was considering flipping them around (if I went to 285), but I don't really like them so I was looking at stealies. Problem is I took off the stock flares to paint them but never put them back on. I am worried that MT's without flares will throw rocks everywhere and mess up my purty paint.

CRUm wrote:

dcarr1971 wrote:

 (I'm not sure you can do that with those wheels unless you pick up wheel spacers though.  My steel wheels are offset...)

I was considering flipping them around (if I went to 285), but I don't really like them so I was looking at stealies. Problem is I took off the stock flares to paint them but never put them back on. I am worried that MT's without flares will throw rocks everywhere and mess up my purty paint.

you will need terrafirma flexi flares to cover the bigger tires

That is why i was leaning towards the 255's. $300 for a set of those flares! I mean they could cut us some slack, we bailed 'em out of WW2 after all. That 300 for flares is the differance between a full size spare or not. So idk what I am going to do.