what to do with my range?

now that i only have one junk box to repair i will have some more funds available, not twice as much money though, as i picked up a car payment and my car insurance doubled. needless to say im trying to figure out a plan.

It already has a 2" OME lift and +2" TF shocks i have a spare set of TRW rims that i was thinking of putting either 33's or 35's on. If i go 33's i might put 1 inch spacers in, if i go 35's i will put in RTE 3" springs and TF +5" shocks. or maybe 33's with +5" tf shocks and lowered mounts and cones or fuck.. i dont know...

what would you do?

truck already has +2" tf shocks, 2" OME springs, HD track and tie rods, tf damper, new steering box, abs pump accumulator, front brakes, 8mm wires and new plugs. on order rear brakes and ss extended brake lines

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If you go with 255/85/16s the bfg km2 tire they are a little taller than 33". But not much taller. I know with OME 2" hd coils in the front and the meduim duty 2" in the rear you will clear 33s with out spending a crap load on arms or slotted swivel balls, They will clear and tuck in the rear but you will have to do some light fender trim in the front. In combination with RTEs adjustable shock towers and 10" fox shocks, relocating the upper shock mounts in the rear, You might be impressed with the amount of flex you will get. I had this set up on my RRC but with Bilstiens, I prefer the FOX shocks, Best bang for the buck. I suggested the HD front springs because I know that you'll add a heavy bumper and a winch maybe dual batteries. They will be stiff at first but the HDs will get softer with time and wheeling. I have almost the same setup on my D1 now and it works great. I cut the fenders and added D2 flares.

Good Luck!

already have the HD springs front and back. putting the ARB and the Warn off my Disco on the classic. no dual battery setup planned, put the DH plat that was in the disco in the classic already. the other option is an RTE 2" body lift.

I'm planning to stick to the tires i had on the disco but in a 33
https://www.treadwright.com/p-55-285-75r16-guard-dog-m-t-d.aspx

otherwise im going to put the RTE 3" springs longer shocks and these
https://www.treadwright.com/p-77-315-75r16-guard-dog-m-t-d.aspx

You can't go wrong with RTE springs, I just talked to Bill yesterday, We were talking about the poor guy that sank his D2 at ROTR!!!! I think you should get a discount just for good effort, What did you get for a Daily Driver?

Vader wrote:

You can't go wrong with RTE springs, I just talked to Bill yesterday, We were talking about the poor guy that sank his D2 at ROTR!!!! I think you should get a discount just for good effort, What did you get for a Daily Driver?

I hear nothing but good things about the RTE 3" springs.

I got an 09 honda civic. 37mpg fuck the world. save me even more $. the disco got 8.4mpg on the way to Rausch.

Go big or go home.. I vote 315/75/16, 3" RTE and a healthy amount of trimming.. After 500 different set ups

Thats what I am running on the dusty disco now..


Another option is running the 2" kit you have now and Justins 1.25" body lift. may retain some steerability on the road that way without getting radius arms and castor corrected swivels. Either way you're looking at quiet a bit of trimming. Looking back I kinda regret getting the flares but your state may require them if your tires stick out to far.. I liked the look of mine trimmed but no flares. The 315/75's will probably measure 34" at trail pressure.

what shocks are you running now jake?

Hilltoppersx wrote:

what shocks are you running now jake?

Fox - 12" remote res rear and 10" emulsion fronts. May upgrade to 12" remote fronts some day.. D2 front towers and RTE mounts..

With that said 12" fox emulsions from Justin is the best price per shock value.. The remote res are a little pricey since we dont do baja racing

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

what shocks are you running now jake?

since we dont do baja racing

speak for yourself... you have not tried to follow me to a ranger station in the pines at closing time. brett had trouble keeping up and his son was poopin his pants

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

what shocks are you running now jake?

since we dont do baja racing

speak for yourself... you have not tried to follow me to a ranger station in the pines at closing time. brett had trouble keeping up and his son was poopin his pants

Hahaha you may want this shock then..


Don't want to overheat those shocks. But in all seriousness another nice part about the fox is that they are rebuildable and revalveable (I know that's not a word...)

yeah i like the fox shocks their like $200 each ? why did you go emulsion up front? just to save $$? jake can you take a pic of your snorkel where it comes into the fender and connects to the air box?

Justin sells the 10" for around $150 Plus he sells the rubber bush for $5 I belive, Cant remember what I paid for the bushing but it was very cheap and he put the rubber bushing in for me.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

yeah i like the fox shocks their like $200 each ? why did you go emulsion up front? just to save $$? jake can you take a pic of your snorkel where it comes into the fender and connects to the air box?

Yea I got the emulsions because Justin had them lightly used when I was ordering shocks so I ended up just buying them.

Here's a pic of my snorkel setup.. I got rid of the plastic piece safari snorkel sends you because it doesnt seal for shit..



I got the hose off amazon for like $15.. I posted the info either on here or Dweb you could probably do something similar for a RRC and you can cut the hose to fit and refit/seal the connector pieces on the end.

Vader wrote:

Justin sells the 10" for around $150 Plus he sells the rubber bush for $5 I belive, Cant remember what I paid for the bushing but it was very cheap and he put the rubber bushing in for me.

12" are the same price, $148 each.. On a trail rig, run the heims.. I'm running the heims and just made some spacers for them.. I want to make some aluminum ones though cause mine have rusted. If you want bushings I have enough to do all 4 shocks and would sell them for ~$20

jake what size diameter is the snorkel at the point you made it meed that hvac hose? im going to eliminate the metal case and trumpet and use the MAF and some racing intake hose like Widener did on his d2, guess i will be on the hunt for a d1 safari snorkel

Hilltoppersx wrote:

jake what size diameter is the snorkel at the point you made it meed that hvac hose? im going to eliminate the metal case and trumpet and use the MAF and some racing intake hose like Widener did on his d2, guess i will be on the hunt for a d1 safari snorkel

Why a D1 Snorkel? I dont think it will fit on the body right.. With a RRC it would be cake to make your own how it's set up. I'd run it like this guy did..

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13056

With that said here's the thread with the info for my hose

http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79969&highlight=snorkel+hose

the top of that classic snorkel looks good, then under the hood it looks like a shitty hvac job for a clothes dryer.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

the top of that classic snorkel looks good, then under the hood it looks like a shitty hvac job for a clothes dryer.

Lol yea I agree. Like chapman said in my thread mcmaster sells wire reinforced hose too.

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

what shocks are you running now jake?

Fox - 12" remote res rear and 10" emulsion fronts. May upgrade to 12" remote fronts some day.. D2 front towers and RTE mounts..

With that said 12" fox emulsions from Justin is the best price per shock value.. The remote res are a little pricey since we dont do baja racing

X3

I am speaking a little early as my only background with them is putting the 10" Emulsions for the front on the shelf (they have been waiting for the Toyota axle to get done). But something that trick looking has to work well I know it doesn't mean shit and comparing apples to oranges but I run Fox front and rear on my full sussy mtn bike and they just work great and I put my bike in much tougher situations than my 90.

You can use one of these, to attach to the air box:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Spectre-Air-duct-mounting-plate/_/N-265w?itemIdentifier=422450&_requestid=2871378

I looked into this when I was going the diy snorkel route.

durt d1ver wrote:

You can use one of these, to attach to the air box:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Spectre-Air-duct-mounting-plate/_/N-265w?itemIdentifier=422450&_requestid=2871378

I looked into this when I was going the diy snorkel route.

i have a trumpet in the classic. i can cut the trumpet till it's slightly smaller then a common width and then use some type of hose to slide over top. i just dont like that tubing that looks like a clothes dryer exhaust.

Lucky 8 4.5” springs
Fox 14” Emulsion Shocks F&R
RTE Radius arms and rear link (would like the curry jointed rear link but im not that rich)
Ashcroft Front & rear Heavy Duty 4.37 R & P
Ashcroft Rear axle shaft
315/75R16 Guard Dog M/T (D)

i have a detroit for the rear.

next i need to figure out drive shafts, cones, retainers, etc...

14" shocks won't fit. You'll have 0 compression unless you make custom towers and mount them in front of the spring on the axle. In the rear you'd have to make custom mounts and cut the floor. Stick with 12" on a 4.5" spring lift it gives you like 4.5" up travel. Plus without the curry jointed arms you won't get full 14" of droop out of them. With radius arms forget about it..

Also pm Mongo on Dweb and get the arms like what I had.. They are around $400 and have ballistic joints on the frame side. I recommend lower cones in the rear and the polyurethane ones I have are quiet and work well.

Jake wrote:

14" shocks won't fit. You'll have 0 compression unless you make custom towers and mount them in front of the spring on the axle. In the rear you'd have to make custom mounts and cut the floor. Stick with 12" on a 4.5" spring lift it gives you like 4.5" up travel. Plus without the curry jointed arms you won't get full 14" of droop out of them. With radius arms forget about it..

Also pm Mongo on Dweb and get the arms like what I had.. They are around $400 and have ballistic joints on the frame side. I recommend lower cones in the rear and the polyurethane ones I have are quiet and work well.

what brand are the arms you got from Mongo? so they mount like the curry arms from RTE?

Hey Ed,

I sent you some a picture message of the arms but pulling an all nighter to make some progress on this axle swap and watching some paint dry figured I'd make a post.. The arms were custom made by Frank. Looking back now I probably could have made it all myself but at the time had/still have 500 projects on my plate. The only semi difficult part to make is the plate that mounts to the frame. However also looking back at it if I was to do it myself I'd borrow my buddies plasma and cut off the frame mount and run the arms about 5-10" longer tucked up above the frame rail. But once again I wanted to get my truck done and take it out and wheel it..

Anyways to the point - they are made of 2" .250 wall DOM which is the stupid duty stuff. The axle side is a ballistic fab greaseable poly and the frame side is a 1.25" shank ballistic orbital joint. The frame end joints are massive..


a pic of the frame end joint. These are re buildable as well which is why I prefer them.. cheaper in the long run.


We played around with running their ballistic poly joint on the frame side and an orbital one the axle but the orbital wouldnt clear the housing by 1/8".

Also I'd look more into springs before you pull the trigger on the 4.5" I'm thinking RTE 3" springs may be the best set up allowing for optimal up travel and a ton of droop while keeping the COG low. I felt the 5" RTE's were a bit too much. Plus 5" ideally needs radius arms AND castor corrected swivel balls, which is what I am running now but I got a good deal on the swivel balls. Dont mess around with Radius arms go RTE. Anyway - I think in the rear I have 4.5" of up travel and droop looks something like this with my current arms..



In that pic my frame is on like 26" worth of jack stands and the axle is on the floor..... I am going to have to get limiting straps and longer brake hoses... or fab a different bracket for them..

forgot to mention I have a set of LT230 mounts too if you plan on doing that swap I wont be needing them I'll cut you a deal on them..