Tray back Disco build

i wouldnt reinvent the wheel. Bowler and QT did all the hard work.

HA I am cutting apart a $500 disco and you are posting up pics of wild cats? I guess I dont see how they are linked

The last pic is how it should go. A box that tilts away to get at the spare. Not saying u need to build a wild cat but without the top its basically a tray back with a cage

Hilltoppersx wrote:

The last pic is how it should go. A box that tilts away to get at the spare. Not saying u need to build a wild cat but without the top its basically a tray back with a cage

Yea I dont really see the need for a box that tilts away from the spare if I put the spare in front and lower than the box

Honestly I dont even really need a big box like that this think will likely be on a trailer before it makes any events.

Oh. At one point this week you mentioned possibly keeping it street legal. If you are going to trailer it fuck it. Who needs a spare? Keep spares on the trailer. All you have to do is close the cab in with the rear door and run the fuel tank. You will,be, ready for the annual.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Oh. At one point this week you mentioned possibly keeping it street legal. If you are going to trailer it fuck it. Who needs a spare? Keep spares on the trailer. All you have to do is close the cab in with the rear door and run the fuel tank. You will,be, ready for the annual.

I keep the spare for all the fools around me haha just kidding - I would still like to have some stuff like fluids and some tools. I'd like to make it street legal but it's so far from that right now it's hard to imagine getting it back to that point. And the rear door is no where near large enough to cover the back of the cab.. I need to plumb ne brake lines, see if I can make the current fuel lines work and finish cab, floors and get a seat in it before it goes anywhere..

Questions on steel! before I place my order..

1. thickness for cab - want something easy to work with but not going to be tin can thin and noisey. Going to be braced to square tube halfway down the rear of the cab and probably two verticals square tubes as well..

2. thickness for floor want something solid just able to weld to whats left of the old panels.

3. Thinking about replacing rusted out door sills with a thick piece of square tubing to eliminate the need for rock sliders. Then bracing it with the body mounts or frame.. Like this



I'm sure I could get away with 1/8" but would 1/4" be a better bet?

Thanks!

16 gauge on the floors should be good, and i would use 18 gauge on the cab. you putting round or square nerfs on?

Hilltoppersx wrote:

16 gauge on the floors should be good, and i would use 18 gauge on the cab. you putting round or square nerfs on?

Not sure on nerfs yet - for the floors I was thinking something stupid thick and solid like 10 and 16 or 18 for the cab

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

16 gauge on the floors should be good, and i would use 18 gauge on the cab. you putting round or square nerfs on?

Not sure on nerfs yet - for the floors I was thinking something stupid thick and solid like 10 and 16 or 18 for the cab

what about cutting? without a plasma you are going to kick yourself trying to cut up 10 gauge to fit.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

16 gauge on the floors should be good, and i would use 18 gauge on the cab. you putting round or square nerfs on?

Not sure on nerfs yet - for the floors I was thinking something stupid thick and solid like 10 and 16 or 18 for the cab

what about cutting? without a plasma you are going to kick yourself trying to cut up 10 gauge to fit.

I can cut it with the grinder and a cut off blade no problem

However looking at it I may need to bend some of it... I think I will go what toy suggested

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

16 gauge on the floors should be good, and i would use 18 gauge on the cab. you putting round or square nerfs on?

Not sure on nerfs yet - for the floors I was thinking something stupid thick and solid like 10 and 16 or 18 for the cab

what about cutting? without a plasma you are going to kick yourself trying to cut up 10 gauge to fit.

I can cut it with the grinder and a cut off blade no problem

However looking at it I may need to bend some of it... I think I will go what toy suggested

didnt you burn thru a grinder already? who is toy?

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

16 gauge on the floors should be good, and i would use 18 gauge on the cab. you putting round or square nerfs on?

Not sure on nerfs yet - for the floors I was thinking something stupid thick and solid like 10 and 16 or 18 for the cab

what about cutting? without a plasma you are going to kick yourself trying to cut up 10 gauge to fit.

I can cut it with the grinder and a cut off blade no problem

However looking at it I may need to bend some of it... I think I will go what toy suggested

didnt you burn thru a grinder already? who is toy?

I went to tighten the screw on the side of the grinder and it broke. I could probably fix it but harbor freight doesnt carry replacement parts for their cheap ass grinders. I bought a 6 amp Bosch - it's not 13 amp Dewalt but it's noticably better than the harbor freight POS

Sorry I meant YOU but was one key too far to the left.

my first look at this thread ...

took a break from all of the work and decided to have some fun - drove the truck around a bit to see how it acts now that there is no rear end Didnt have rear brakes kinda had front brakes but mostly used the e-brake. Spun out coming down a hill to fast when I yanked on the e-brake. This think is a blast though.

Videos on my facebook -

https://www.facebook.com/jake.hartman1

OK a little progress on the truggy this weekend..

Picked up some mud tires and steel wheels for it.. They are british retreads that came over on d-90 pick up...



Also picked up some spring retainers for the rear for when I put the new mounts and shocks on.. Right now the plan is to run 3" AG4x4 springs, -2 mounts and OME's until I can fund some new shocks. Then honestly I may go with pro-crap shocks because this thing is so light and already feels stiff with just the stock shocks. We will see once it is at it's final weight I suppose.

Oh - and I drove it around some more and it is scary fast. And it spins out really easy cause it's so light in the rear. I am going to be making some trails behind my place in the woods with my neighbors so hopefully that will give me more testing grounds for it.

while you are busy cutting everything. cut that front bumper for fucks sake

Hilltoppersx wrote:

while you are busy cutting everything. cut that front bumper for fucks sake

I'll cut it today just for you

It looks cool and I agree chop that bumper slacker. So, new trails at Jakes house, sounds interesting.

LockenDIFF wrote:

It looks cool and I agree chop that bumper slacker. So, new trails at Jakes house, sounds interesting.

Yea won't be a ton of land but is going to require clearing to make it ride able

So today I finished cutting the body including the bumper so Ed would shut up, painted the bumpe and the wheels, worked on the brakes for a while, then took measurements so I can make the 1x1 supports to make the cab one solid piece again. Here's a pic of the truck after the chop was finished.



Here's a picture of the truck next to the 96'



Here's the measurement sketch I made up.. Probably overkill but I want it to be as solid as possible.


How I have the brake hoses set up for now. I moved the bracket from the body to the frame. I may need to move it up though. I also need to get a T fitting instead of the individual connectors and move it more towards the diff. This was just a rough mock up to try to get the brakes going again but I need to get some more fittings anyway.

the front bumper looks better then the hood now... spray the hood you lazy fuck.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

the front bumper looks better then the hood now... spray the hood you lazy fuck.

HAHAHA fuck you!!!!!!!!!!!!! You come spray the hood! I bought a couple cans and using it on the rusted shit after wire wheeling the hell out of it is priority right now. I bought the cheaper stuff to do under the body it's going to get painted when the cab is done anyway.

New brake lines done - wasnt very fun doing those but happy to have brakes again.

Also placed an order for the 1x1 tubing I plan to use for the main structure of the cab. Turns out there is a steel company super close to me my neighbor told me about. Not sure if they have sheet though...

Just found out myself when I was watching an auto show on spike over the weekend that there is a raw metal supply company that will ship whatever dimension of material you need.