My D.I.Y. Head job

wtf is wrong with you? Lord Chesterfield is made on that big hill in town. These faggy micorbrews can't beat the Lord...

get back to work, bitch

jveen wrote:

Here is today's progress.

Wow, you're really making it hard on yourself here. Pull the accessories and brackets. They have to come off anyway, as they are attached to the heads. That way you aren't working over them.

Also, if you think that motor looks bad, try this on for size:



That's what happens when you have leaky exhaust valve guide seals for several 10s of thousands of miles - all the oil bakes on.

DarylJ wrote:

jveen wrote:

Here is today's progress.

Wow, you're really making it hard on yourself here. Pull the accessories and brackets. They have to come off anyway, as they are attached to the heads. That way you aren't working over them.

This is true - just unbolt them and them, put a piece of cardboard on your radiator and just rest them up against it.

I drank Yuengling since high school I want a change and Lord Chesterfield is the shit
I have the A/C bracket off I slid it back it to position on the stud and ran out of light to get to the Alt. bracket by the time I got there it was late in the afternoon. Whats the red shit on the long bolts?

jveen wrote:

I drank Yuengling since high school I want a change and Lord Chesterfield is the shit
I have the A/C bracket off I slid it back it to position on the stud and ran out of light to get to the Alt. bracket by the time I got there it was late in the afternoon. Whats the red shit on the long bolts?

It looks like silicone.... Not sure why it is there though

here is today's result pulled the right side head with no problem.


The compression leak.



The Head

Im starting to believe that going back to mls head gaskets with studs would be alleviate alot of the head gasket issues, which seem to be caused by the composite gaskets blowing out. Mine blew out at the drivers side rear water jacket, merely causing an external coolant leak. Yours blew out at the cylinder, causing a loss of combustion gasses to atmosphere. My non engineer thinking is that spending the extra money on multi layer steel gaskets, along with head studs to properly torque the mls gaskets would lead to less gasket ruptures.

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Im starting to believe that going back to mls head gaskets with studs would be alleviate alot of the head gasket issues, which seem to be caused by the composite gaskets blowing out. Mine blew out at the drivers side rear water jacket, merely causing an external coolant leak. Yours blew out at the cylinder, causing a loss of combustion gasses to atmosphere. My non engineer thinking is that spending the extra money on multi layer steel gaskets, along with head studs to properly torque the mls gaskets would lead to less gasket ruptures.

I was thinking about studs to. So I don't screw up the 90-90 torque sequence. I never read anything about this kind of failure It was always near the water jacket and with a coolant leak.

It might be worth a call to Mark at d&d. I dont think anybody in the us knows these engines better than they do.

http://www.aluminumv8.com/index.htm

Got 1 bolt out on driver side then the fucker kicked my ass. Broke 3 sockets a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a Irwin 5/8ths bolt out. Any input on removing a partially rounded bolt?

Pick up a sacrificial 12pt socket a hair smaller, put a little jbweld in the socket, and hammer it on. Then use an impact wrench to remove it

Quote :

Pick up a sacrificial 12pt socket a hair smaller, put a little jbweld in the socket, and hammer it on. Then use an impact wrench to remove it

We can use impact wrenches I thought it was a big no-no with aluminum heads and block. I already have a set of 12 pts from h.f. to trash. Thanks for the help.

I normally wouldnt recommend it, but you risk just stripping it more using straight torque. I wouldnt use an impact to tighten anything, but your other option is drilling the bolt head off, and then once you have the head off, removing the lefotver with a pair of vice grips.

jveen wrote:

Got 1 bolt out on driver side then the fucker kicked my ass. Broke 3 sockets a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a Irwin 5/8ths bolt out. Any input on removing a partially rounded bolt?

If you broke any sockets you need to stop using whatever you are using. I always use impact sockets (on a breaker bar with a pipe) to avoid any problems like this.

As far as getting one out that is rounded off, a lot depends on where it is. Please say it's not the under-the-valve-cover front or rear one. Really your best bet is hammering a socket that is one size too small on there. If that doesn't work, drilling or grinding the head off is the next best option. Chances are high you'll be able to remove it with vise grips once the head is off, as the bulk of the reasons the head bolts are so tight is because they are torque to yield (so they are stretched). Once you release the tension by cutting the head off the rest should come out smoothly.

It driver side 1st bolt under the v.c. I am using impact socket but switched to reg. Thinking the inside of the impact was fucked after sliding off the bolt a shit load of times. The bolt is only rounded off towards the top the bottom of the bolt is fine and the sockets still grip its just when I but some ass into it lifts hits the rounded portion and slides off. (Tools I am using are impact sockets 48" B.B. Tools I broke were 5/8 sockets and 3/8-1/2 extention and a 5/8 bolt out.)

jveen wrote:

It driver side 1st bolt under the v.c. I am using impact socket but switched to reg. Thinking the inside of the impact was fucked after sliding off the bolt a shit load of times. The bolt is only rounded off towards the top the bottom of the bolt is fine and the sockets still grip its just when I but some ass into it lifts hits the rounded portion and slides off. (Tools I am using are impact sockets 48" B.B. Tools I broke were 5/8 sockets and 3/8-1/2 extention and a 5/8 bolt out.)

You need to put a good quality NON DAMAGED AT ALL impact socket on that on a breaker bar with a long pipe. Someone needs to hold down on the head of the bar and socket for all they are worth while you slowly and with a lot of control work it loose (that's why I'm saying you need a huge bar - no jerking).

If you can't get it to stop lifting on the damaged bolt - STOP. Don't keep trying. Now you're on to an impact wrench. Again holding down with everything you've got.

You don't have very many options on that bolt. Grinding it is going to be absolutely miserable, so you'll likely be down to drilling the head off, which is going to take forever.

You can try a slightly smaller metric socket as well. I used a 16mm to remove the bolts but 5/8 to install.

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You need to put a good quality NON DAMAGED AT ALL impact socket on that on a breaker bar with a long pipe. Someone needs to hold down on the head of the bar and socket for all they are worth while you slowly and with a lot of control work it loose (that's why I'm saying you need a huge bar - no jerking).

If you can't get it to stop lifting on the damaged bolt - STOP. Don't keep trying. Now you're on to an impact wrench. Again holding down with everything you've got.

You don't have very many options on that bolt. Grinding it is going to be absolutely miserable, so you'll likely be down to drilling the head off, which is going to take forever.

Socket wasnt damaged just the black finish was scrapped off. I don't have the right kind of long pipe for this job. The impact gun didnt do shit (its from H.F. worked as expected)
I was thinking ,now this is plan D, J-b 5/8 socket to the bolt.

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You can try a slightly smaller metric socket as well. I used a 16mm to remove the bolts but 5/8 to install.

Went over after work to try this tonight the Impact set I have didnt have a 16 mm

I remember the socket wanting to ride up and off the bolts heads too! It was freakish!

I took the socket and ground off around the opening. There is a lead in there and you get better grip if you remove it. Its just a little bit harder to get the socket on the bolt head then.

DiscoSux wrote:

I remember the socket wanting to ride up and off the bolts heads too! It was freakish!

I took the socket and ground off around the opening. There is a lead in there and you get better grip if you remove it. Its just a little bit harder to get the socket on the bolt head then.

It's called a chamfer, and yes removing it will help, but you run the risk of weakening the socket from heat.

I suppose the other big "trick" is to make sure the head of the breaker bar is as close to 90 degrees as possible. And, seriously....big pipe. The longer the better (within reason). It affords you better control because you aren't jerking or hammering at it. Any hardware store or plumbing supply should have a nice cheap piece of black iron pipe that will do the job quite well.

DarylJ wrote:

It's called a chamfer, and yes removing it will help, but you run the risk of weakening the socket from heat.

I suppose the other big "trick" is to make sure the head of the breaker bar is as close to 90 degrees as possible. And, seriously....big pipe. The longer the better (within reason). It affords you better control because you aren't jerking or hammering at it. Any hardware store or plumbing supply should have a nice cheap piece of black iron pipe that will do the job quite well.

I find the handle from my floor Jack works well with a breaker bar.

DarylJ wrote:

DiscoSux wrote:

I remember the socket wanting to ride up and off the bolts heads too! It was freakish!

I took the socket and ground off around the opening. There is a lead in there and you get better grip if you remove it. Its just a little bit harder to get the socket on the bolt head then.

It's called a chamfer, and yes removing it will help, but you run the risk of weakening the socket from heat.

No, its not a chamfer necessarily. And don't you know how to grind?

I am just going to j-b the socket on the bolt and do that

Thebloody323 wrote:

DarylJ wrote:

It's called a chamfer, and yes removing it will help, but you run the risk of weakening the socket from heat.

I suppose the other big "trick" is to make sure the head of the breaker bar is as close to 90 degrees as possible. And, seriously....big pipe. The longer the better (within reason). It affords you better control because you aren't jerking or hammering at it. Any hardware store or plumbing supply should have a nice cheap piece of black iron pipe that will do the job quite well.

I find the handle from my floor Jack works well with a breaker bar.

ding ding ding!! we have a winner!!! Handle from floor jack over top of a breaker bar will supply more than adaquate torque for both taking them off and putting them back on (if you're a lone)

I have used a smaller multifunction socket - the ones craftsman sells and hammered it on.. I also had great success with the bolt extractors I have - the secret being make sure it is biting into the head of the bolt before you start twisting and make sure to appy pressure to the head while youre twisting to keep it on.

I guess ill have to pick one up this weekend