Official firearm pic thread

I just purchased a single stage reloading kit, mostly because of my .35 Marlin. I took that rifle hog hunting last year in Florida. I shot one pig, the bullet blew through both shoulders, and then hit another pig that has hiding behind the one I shot.

I want to build another AR for shooting 3 gun at the range I'm a member of. I used my old one twice for 3 gun, but then I sold it.  This is what it looked like before I sold it.

Yeah, I plan to just tack weld the muzzle brake to the barrel to make is Jersey safe. Modifying the magazines isn't too big of a problem either, as they're dirt cheap I'm going to drill a hole through the side and just pop rivet it. $25 for pack of 10 on cheaperthandirt.com

Actually need to drill a hole through the device into the barrel and drive in a spring steel roll pin then grind that flat and weld over it, other method is full penetrating welds to be compliant, fair warning you must have paperwork showing the mfg of the muzzle device claims it is a muzzle brake NOT A FLASH HIDER and I would retain that paper work

And mags need to be perminantly modified I.e. not easily reversed to hi cap

It is not up to law enforcement to prove you wrong on the spot, if it looks illegal and they act, it will be up to you to prove them wrong in court, and if at gets involved forget it cause they will do whatever it takes to prove that they can remove the muzzle device or that its a flashider, they will also overturn there own tech branch official letters if it suits their needs in court

This is not paranoia it is fact so do as you wish I am just giving some free solid advice cya


One of My last trips to my fun job I had built a 300 blackout upper for my sbr, worked real nice only cost a few hundred to build think 8.5" stainless barrel, and we had bought the stuff to cut down 5.56 cases and redneck for use with 308 bullets

At this point its the only economical way to shoot that caliber, great for hunting, ESP that wild pig IMO, works with standard are lower and mags and bolt carrier group

TOM R wrote:

Actually need to drill a hole through the device into the barrel and drive in a spring steel roll pin then grind that flat and weld over it, other method is full penetrating welds to be compliant, fair warning you must have paperwork showing the mfg of the muzzle device claims it is a muzzle brake NOT A FLASH HIDER and I would retain that paper work

And mags need to be perminantly modified I.e. not easily reversed to hi cap

It is not up to law enforcement to prove you wrong on the spot, if it looks illegal and they act, it will be up to you to prove them wrong in court, and if at gets involved forget it cause they will do whatever it takes to prove that they can remove the muzzle device or that its a flashider, they will also overturn there own tech branch official letters if it suits their needs in court

This is not paranoia it is fact so do as you wish I am just giving some free solid advice cya


One of My last trips to my fun job I had built a 300 blackout upper for my sbr, worked real nice only cost a few hundred to build think 8.5" stainless barrel, and we had bought the stuff to cut down 5.56 cases and redneck for use with 308 bullets

At this point its the only economical way to shoot that caliber, great for hunting, ESP that wild pig IMO, works with standard are lower and mags and bolt carrier group

Thanks for the advise, I appreciate it. I'll definitely CYA and do a full weld around the brake and make sure I have the documentation saying it's a brake and not a flash suppressor. The nice thing with this gun is that it comes with a 5 rounder as well, I'll just leave the 20 round ones in PA until I can permanently modify them.

Dude I have found that the 10 rd ones are cheap at n.j. gun stores its just a matter of the right store

Regards to welds you need heat so you meet the full penetrating part ie no one can throw it in a vice and twist it off with a wrench or a pipe wrench easily

If you are using an non threaded barrel couple welds are fine or a cross pin and its no big deal because barrel is unthreaded and compliant, welds are to keep it from flying downrange when u shoot

If you are using a threaded barrel as in no legal in n.j. then pin it like I said above or do the deep penetrating welds, just don't warp out the barrel welding lol

Haha, will look into pinning it. If that's a pain, I'll take it to a machine works near my dad, they do good work so I will see what they say. Want to take it to the Range Friday so if I can't get it NJ legal in time I'll keep it in PA until it's ready.

Yeah unfortunately I have no reference pics to show u I will pm you my # if you have a question I may be able to answer

Also Brian, when are you getting another Landie?

Thanks Tom appreciate the help, I owe you a beer at the next outing

Picked it up today, pretty happy with it. Haven't put any rounds through it but will head to Wycans farm this weekend when I have some spare time. The "Chevron Muzzle Brake" (as listed in the documents that it came with) came pre pinned which is awesome

Wow you lucked out, I believe the brake is pinned to give you a legal 16" barrel that is probly a 14 or 14.5" barrel without that installed