Your work list

DocFodge wrote:

Getting stoked about getting my TF's on this weekend! It's going to feel like a new ride.

Jake - Is there anything else i need other than what was sent with the kit (shocks and springs)? Should i get new towers for the front or any kind of spacer, etc? New bolts of any kind, 'just in case'? Anything else i should replace for grins and giggles while I've got all the wheels off (brake pads, sensors, etc.)? Just want to make sure I have time to get any additional parts in if i might need them.

Nah just the stuff we discussed. Only thing I would be potentially worried about breaking is the bolt on the rear shock mount. Mine didnt break but both of Billys did when he took his off. Our trucks are a bit older and Billys had original shocks when he pulled his. If anything does break we can take a ride up to Randys and get a replacement. No reason to buy the extra parts if you dont need them. Your towers should be fine too unless they are rusting through which is rare.

Lets try to get an early start on it just in case anything does come up and if we have enough time we can do mine too. Paint is on order. My trucks cooling system is entirely pulled off my truck. Hopefully I can get put back together and flushed a couple times on Saturday.. Now would somebody please give me a D2 shaft and t-case flange? lol

Long Haul wrote:

I gotta add install 3 link front setup on the green truck now. Thanks for the heads up on finding that for me Jake! Im sure that setups gonna bring out a whole new batch of drivability problems on that truck.

You're welcome man. I am STOKED to see how this goes. Now you want to sell me your radius arms for cheap?

DocFodge wrote:

Getting stoked about getting my TF's on this weekend! It's going to feel like a new ride.

Jake - Is there anything else i need other than what was sent with the kit (shocks and springs)? Should i get new towers for the front or any kind of spacer, etc? New bolts of any kind, 'just in case'? Anything else i should replace for grins and giggles while I've got all the wheels off (brake pads, sensors, etc.)? Just want to make sure I have time to get any additional parts in if i might need them.

Start spraying the shock tower bolts with penetrating oil every day for a few days prior. Remove the sway bars, and throw them away. Other than that, justins video is good. I needed to take a ratchet strap and use it to compress one of my rear springs in order to get the longer spring in.

durt d1ver wrote:

DocFodge wrote:

Getting stoked about getting my TF's on this weekend! It's going to feel like a new ride.

Jake - Is there anything else i need other than what was sent with the kit (shocks and springs)? Should i get new towers for the front or any kind of spacer, etc? New bolts of any kind, 'just in case'? Anything else i should replace for grins and giggles while I've got all the wheels off (brake pads, sensors, etc.)? Just want to make sure I have time to get any additional parts in if i might need them.

Start spraying the shock tower bolts with penetrating oil every day for a few days prior. Remove the sway bars, and throw them away. Other than that, justins video is good. I needed to take a ratchet strap and use it to compress one of my rear springs in order to get the longer spring in.

Brian and I just took a those springs off that d1 up at Randys. The best trick is to do both at the same time so the other shock isnt holding the whole axel up. The you can lower the axel put the new springs in the seats and jack it back up. Bolt up your shocks and your good to go. I never thought about doing it that way until we dropped down the axel with no shocks and on the stands it dropped damn near to the ground. Of course it didnt have a drive shaft of or anything else to hold it in place or limit it. However it did have sway bars which I thought was pretty odd.

Fodge - Brian has a good point - if you have some PB blaster start spraying both ends of where your shocks connect and the 4 nuts on the base of the front shock tower.

Will do. Going to go out and give them a good soak PB before i head in to work. I'll keep a couple of cans with me and do them again when I park at work and again when I get home at night. Should be nothing more than finger tight when i get there Sun (right)

i agree with Brian with removing the sways. I think you said you had quick disconnects to install on the front? the only other thing is i had to reroute my ABS lines out of the orig holders. also if you want now would be a good time to put stainless steel brake lines on.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

i agree with Brian with removing the sways. I think you said you had quick disconnects to install on the front? the only other thing is i had to reroute my ABS lines out of the orig holders. also if you want now would be a good time to put stainless steel brake lines on.

Thanks. I think this will be a good time to install the quick disconnects. Just ordered the stainless steel extended brake lines. WIll have them on Thursday.

DocFodge wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

i agree with Brian with removing the sways. I think you said you had quick disconnects to install on the front? the only other thing is i had to reroute my ABS lines out of the orig holders. also if you want now would be a good time to put stainless steel brake lines on.

Thanks. I think this will be a good time to install the quick disconnects. Just ordered the stainless steel extended brake lines. WIll have them on Thursday.

Sounds good to me! I didnt even think about the stainless brake lines.

That's why Ed's the boss.... he thinks of these things and keeps us in line.

DocFodge wrote:

That's why Ed's the boss.... he thinks of these things and keeps us in line.

Dont forget you're going to need probably like 3 qt's of DOT 4 brake fluid.

Dont forget you're going to need probably like 3 qt's of DOT 4 brake fluid. [/quote]

i hate brake fluid.

DocFodge wrote:

Dont forget you're going to need probably like 3 qt's of DOT 4 brake fluid.

i hate brake fluid.[/quote]

lol hope you love bleeding brakes! I will push the pedal you bleed them.

This is why I didnt reccomend changing lines

Hope my wife likes my new aftershave - DOT 4. Going to smell like that for a week. We'll assess the brake thing on the fly, thats always a good one to let a shop do. But adding two inches plus removing the sways I probably want that little extra length in the lines...

DocFodge wrote:

Hope my wife likes my new aftershave - DOT 4. Going to smell like that for a week. We'll assess the brake thing on the fly, thats always a good one to let a shop do. But adding two inches plus removing the sways I probably want that little extra length in the lines...

Yea you should be fine on the length with the +2 although it never really hurts. The nice part is the stainless steel lines improve your brake performance. If you've never flushed your brake fluid or done your brakes we can look at them. If the brakes arent too badly worn I would say do the lines yourself and we can bleed it. If your brakes are worn then I'd take it to a shop and have them do it all at once.

I just ordered some new ceramic pads just in case. I bought the truck last April and have no idea when, if ever, the brake fluid has been changed. When I checked the pads a couple of months ago they looked ok but definitely less than 50%.

you will have everything off alreayd so the brakes and brake lines are not a big deal. i think you have the terrafirma kit? you should get about 2 1/4 - 2 1/2" of lift. it's not the regular road driving that will stress the brake and abs lines it is the droop after you remove the sways when you are off road that will stress.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

you will have everything off alreayd so the brakes and brake lines are not a big deal. i think you have the terrafirma kit? you should get about 2 1/4 - 2 1/2" of lift. it's not the regular road driving that will stress the brake and abs lines it is the droop after you remove the sways when you are off road that will stress.

Is there enough flex with that kit to pull the lines tight? How's the abs routed on the d2?

yeah you have to pop them out of the orig holders and i even pulled some slack out of the engine bay on the fronts.

Yes, they're TerraFirma 2"ers. Sounds like the extended brake lines are the long term hassle free way to go. I'm thinking that pulling/breaking a line on the trail is probably a reall pain in the arse.

Ed - since this is the same set up you did, any other misc. parts good to have on hand just in case? I know Randy is not too far away, but it will be a Sunday and 90 minutes from home, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

not really. its pretty easy. just a crowbar, maybe a dead blow hammer, and bottle jack. the fronts are harder than the backs just because of the placement

did you say 'bottle jack' or 'bottle of jack'? Or both, in that order?

DocFodge wrote:

did you say 'bottle jack' or 'bottle of jack'? Or both, in that order?

Lol bottle of jack after using the bottle jack. Before could result in serious injury.

So when cleaning off those springs from Randy I found the #'s and they are actually 2" RTE's so it looks like I will be keeping the 1" spacers in.. Hopefully I will have them in before this weekend.

Fodge do you have 6 ton jack stands??

I HATE Pin style shocks. especially when they are rounded. At least when I put this handy dandy plate in that mounts on top of my spacer I wont have to deal with getting it all taken apart under the truck.

This is the tool you want to pick up if you have old pin style shocks your trying to remove carefully.
http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-Large-Jaw-Locking-Pliers/dp/B004GZHGG6

Randy tipped me off to that when I was up there the other day. It's too bad I cant find them in my local hardware stores.

Out with the old, in with the new. Fronts should be done just tonight or tomorrow mid day. Just need to KBS the new springs so they dont look like my old ones in a 6 months and find some washers to mount this shock plate since my spacers are too small to fit the bottom of the shock.