Your work list

DiscoSux wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

there goes $80 for an aluminum one!

Did I say I care? lol I'll let that fucker rust before I spent $80 on a fairlead. Unless I get a synthetic line of course.. Plus smittybilt has one for $25. The problem is that my cable would eat an aluminum fairlead in line two recoveries

I have a cable with a cast steel fairlead. It will be fine....

I have read too many horror stories about synthetic line. They are too fragile - strong until you rub them a bit. Then they go to shit - quickly.

That's what she said....

DiscoSux wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

there goes $80 for an aluminum one!

Did I say I care? lol I'll let that fucker rust before I spent $80 on a fairlead. Unless I get a synthetic line of course.. Plus smittybilt has one for $25. The problem is that my cable would eat an aluminum fairlead in line two recoveries

I have a cable with a cast steel fairlead. It will be fine....

I have read too many horror stories about synthetic line. They are too fragile - strong until you rub them a bit. Then they go to shit - quickly.

synth line just drops when it breaks. cable will take you friggin head off when it snaps.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

DiscoSux wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

there goes $80 for an aluminum one!

Did I say I care? lol I'll let that fucker rust before I spent $80 on a fairlead. Unless I get a synthetic line of course.. Plus smittybilt has one for $25. The problem is that my cable would eat an aluminum fairlead in line two recoveries

I have a cable with a cast steel fairlead. It will be fine....

I have read too many horror stories about synthetic line. They are too fragile - strong until you rub them a bit. Then they go to shit - quickly.

synth line just drops when it breaks. cable will take you friggin head off when it snaps.

Cool

Hilltoppersx wrote:

DiscoSux wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

there goes $80 for an aluminum one!

Did I say I care? lol I'll let that fucker rust before I spent $80 on a fairlead. Unless I get a synthetic line of course.. Plus smittybilt has one for $25. The problem is that my cable would eat an aluminum fairlead in line two recoveries

I have a cable with a cast steel fairlead. It will be fine....

I have read too many horror stories about synthetic line. They are too fragile - strong until you rub them a bit. Then they go to shit - quickly.

synth line just drops when it breaks. cable will take you friggin head off when it snaps.

Thats why you throw a jacket or winch blanket on it. No reason to replace a perfectly good cable. A steel cable will last a lot longer than a synthetic one.

durt d1ver wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

DiscoSux wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

there goes $80 for an aluminum one!

Did I say I care? lol I'll let that fucker rust before I spent $80 on a fairlead. Unless I get a synthetic line of course.. Plus smittybilt has one for $25. The problem is that my cable would eat an aluminum fairlead in line two recoveries

I have a cable with a cast steel fairlead. It will be fine....

I have read too many horror stories about synthetic line. They are too fragile - strong until you rub them a bit. Then they go to shit - quickly.

synth line just drops when it breaks. cable will take you friggin head off when it snaps.

Thats why you throw a jacket or winch blanket on it. No reason to replace a perfectly good cable. A steel cable will last a lot longer than a synthetic one.

Yea I dont really care as long as it pulls me out of sticky situations like getting stuck in a ditch lol

yeah if hte cable is in good condition no reason to replace it. but i hate frayed cables, i don't want steel going thru my hands or my skull.

ordering HD steering rods from Justin on Monday. can't wait to get my steering wheel straight again.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

ordering HD steering rods from Justin on Monday. can't wait to get my steering wheel straight again.

Same here my steering wheel is at like 2 o'clock. I need to find somebody who will align and adjust panhard rod and what not.

This is what I am doing tomorrow.. Ashcrofts and Detroit

Jake wrote:

This is what I am doing tomorrow.. Ashcrofts and Detroit

DANG Boiiiiiiiiy.... You be pimpin' in the woods for a minute, home skillet... (yes, I have no clue how to speak "urban")

Front and rear with the lockers and ashcrofts? Excuse my ignorance but how do the Detroits work? Not air like the ARB's, right?

I just removed my anti-sway bars and installed a "new" fan. Hopefully she won't overheat any more. I want to change out the steering box this weekend if I can and maybe install the Range Rover rear dive shaft.

OH!!!! and I cut my Hi-Lift tool handle free from my bent steering rod. It was almost as hard as installing it!

that is great that you're able to recover the handle!! I'm heading out in a few mins going to seal up my snorkel with rtv. tomorrow I'm rewiring lights and adding two more.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

that is great that you're able to recover the handle!! I'm heading out in a few mins going to seal up my snorkel with rtv. tomorrow I'm rewiring lights and adding two more.

dawg,u trying to look like me???????????
good luck wiring the lights.how many lights now????

I have 8 now. these two will make 10! also picking up sliders with nerfs next week

DiscoSux wrote:

Jake wrote:

This is what I am doing tomorrow.. Ashcrofts and Detroit

DANG Boiiiiiiiiy.... You be pimpin' in the woods for a minute, home skillet... (yes, I have no clue how to speak "urban")

Front and rear with the lockers and ashcrofts? Excuse my ignorance but how do the Detroits work? Not air like the ARB's, right?

I just removed my anti-sway bars and installed a "new" fan. Hopefully she won't overheat any more. I want to change out the steering box this weekend if I can and maybe install the Range Rover rear dive shaft.

OH!!!! and I cut my Hi-Lift tool handle free from my bent steering rod. It was almost as hard as installing it!

lol damn son

Detroit's are not selectable like ARB's. It's a automatic locker than unlocks when you go around turns on the road. It has to do with how torque is applied to the pinion and wheel spin. It's too damn confusing for me.

Here's a video of how the true trac works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZmsY2YvVsc - pretty intense.

Congrats on ditching the sway bars

im also ordering rockware sliders... hoping i can get them on before ROTR. depends on when my insurance money comes in. got the snorkel all sealed up and put back together. should be water tight now. guess we will see next time i cross a lake.

My to buy list before the end of the year.

Terrafirma 2" lift
Front & rear diff guards
Fuel tank skid plate
Roof rack w/ lights

Hopefully I can order the lift next week.

LockenDIFF wrote:

My to buy list before the end of the year.

Terrafirma 2" lift
Front & rear diff guards
Fuel tank skid plate
Roof rack w/ lights

Hopefully I can order the lift next week.

Let me fix your list for you...

Terrafirma HD lift (~3") with shocks
front and rear diff guards - RTE or RB weld ons
Fuel tank skid plate - save it for later, the tank is not that vulnerable
Roof rack with lights - poseur move, cuts fuels mileage and can be removed by trees (ask Trevor), no need for weekend wheeling. Lights? For what, are you going night wheeling?

add:
remove anti-sway bars
proper off-road tires
HD steering rod and track arm, I know all too well...
Rovertym or similar front bumper - not ARB
winch for above bumper



This info is from a Rover newbie (1 year) that thought he had it all figured out. going out on the trail changes your priorities.

DiscoSux wrote:

LockenDIFF wrote:

My to buy list before the end of the year.

Terrafirma 2" lift
Front & rear diff guards
Fuel tank skid plate
Roof rack w/ lights

Hopefully I can order the lift next week.

Let me fix your list for you...

Terrafirma HD lift (~3") with shocks
front and rear diff guards - RTE or RB weld ons
Fuel tank skid plate - save it for later, the tank is not that vulnerable
Roof rack with lights - poseur move, cuts fuels mileage and can be removed by trees (ask Trevor), no need for weekend wheeling. Lights? For what, are you going night wheeling?

add:
remove anti-sway bars
proper off-road tires
HD steering rod and track arm, I know all too well...
Rovertym or similar front bumper - not ARB
winch for above bumper



This info is from a Rover newbie (1 year) that thought he had it all figured out. going out on the trail changes your priorities.

Edit some more I agree with the rack unless you're going to use it occasionally.

and as far as diff guards I would add QT to the list as well. Integrated pinion guard is sweet and they act like skids so you dont get hung up as easy even though they do wrap around.

Also I would get a rovertym or rockware gas tank skid if I were to do it all over again. I had to cut the terrafirma one to get it to fit my truck. Not sure why but it works now.

Go 3" Terrafirma from if he has it. You're going to want to go taller once you go 2" - trust me and everybody else. And get the "pro sport" +3 shocks... They are way longer than standard.

Let me know if you need help installing the lift. I am installing my second TF lift tomorrow.

I'd figure you guys would change and tweek my list, main reason I posted it. I will consider all opinions.

As for the rack, I have a 150+ pound dog so I need the storage space on top for when she comes with us meaning the wifey two boys and myself +dog, main readon for rack. Saving gas, without rack = two cars to the lake house.

I'm on a budget with this truck, I've spent tooooo much money on my other toy that I don't even drive anymore. I'm trying to make it more suitable for off roading but maintain a family friendly truck as well.

LockenDIFF wrote:

My to buy list before the end of the year.

Terrafirma 2" lift
Front & rear diff guards
Fuel tank skid plate
Roof rack w/ lights

Hopefully I can order the lift next week.

why not the tf 3" ? for diff guards check out tactical rovers they have integrated pinion guards, I like the columbia overland gas tank skid.

i say see if you can find a rack used. SD or garvin wilderness. for lights i would go Hella 700FF off of Amazon, order Hella 100 watt bulbs for them. Diff guards like i said check out Tactical, they are a little over $100 each but do have the pinion guard as one piece so it's nice compare to Rover Bones from Rancy which just protects the front half of the diff. I would find whatever bumper you can. ARB or not. but for now to save money just trim the front bumper you have. there are only a few of us who don't have winches so chances are if you're wheeling with someone else we will pull or winch you out. BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, the main thing is to get yourself the Terrafirma 3" lift and some good A/T or M/T tires. Remember the M/T's will be more aggressive and get you better traction but will be louder on-road, potentially pissing off your wife or better, giving off a hum that puts your kids to sleep.

as for Dave and his smart ass poser comment, considering you will be driving back woods to a cabin, and coming off road with us into the Pine Barrens (which includes night trips) you will need and enjoy the extra illumination for light. They don't let you night wheel at Rausch so Dave doesn't have a use for lights.

solved that custom mount for the PSP problem i was having. $8 and really damn quick to get down and up.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

as for Dave and his smart ass poser comment, considering you will be driving back woods to a cabin, and coming off road with us into the Pine Barrens (which includes night trips) you will need and enjoy the extra illumination for light. They don't let you night wheel at Rausch so Dave doesn't have a use for lights.

If you USE the lights and rack, it isn't a poseur move. That would put you in the minority.

DiscoSux wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

as for Dave and his smart ass poser comment, considering you will be driving back woods to a cabin, and coming off road with us into the Pine Barrens (which includes night trips) you will need and enjoy the extra illumination for light. They don't let you night wheel at Rausch so Dave doesn't have a use for lights.

If you USE the lights and rack, it isn't a poseur move. That would put you in the minority.

good luck finding a rack in this area though.... you gotta be sitting around with about $800-900 cash in hand and reply within 5 minutes of someone posting. Been trying to grab one locally since spring. Actually tried talking a guy out his D2 rack in the Best Buy parking lot last weekend. He was NOT parting with it at any cost. I really need one to help me carry all of my falling off parts around. No room in the back.

easiest way to score a rack is look, at trucks for sale privately with racks and offer them cash for just the rack off the truck.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

easiest way to score a rack is look, at trucks for sale privately with racks and offer them cash for just the rack off the truck.

Scanning ads everyday...