Your work list

Hilltoppersx wrote:

people seem to like those wires. did you get rid of that old ass battery? lol. get yourself a glass mat so you can winch and use those lights without worrying about starting problems.

Nah still have the old ass battery. If it doesnt start when I go back from this 10 day trip I will think about getting a new one. Taking suggestions and reccomendations.. I'm not going to run a dual battery set up though seems a bit much.

i like the Die hard plat 34m. glass mat good warranty

II put kingsbourne's on mine when I did the headgaskets. I was impressed by the quality.

When my battery goes, im just going to goto costco and buy the biggest marine battery that will fit. I like the odyssey/die hard, but they're damn expensive.

durt d1ver wrote:

II put kingsbourne's on mine when I did the headgaskets. I was impressed by the quality.

When my battery goes, im just going to goto costco and buy the biggest marine battery that will fit. I like the odyssey/die hard, but they're damn expensive.

Yea just looked at then online.. Gonna look around a bit

would it not be better to save ur pennies and get the right setup,instead of nickel and diming????
i saved my pennies and put in a dual yellow top setup in.i had a small electrical issue that caused the batteries to die.but fixed the issue and have not had a problem since.i flip the switch and my warn seems to run better with the 2 batteries together.it also helps when u upgrade the alternator as well.

I'm running the aedofab battery tray and isolator kit.


i got the charge kit with the alt as well,really big cables......

and where i placed the switch to the relay


just my 0.02..hope ur plan comes together for you

I gotta agree with Dave on this. These trucks have the most retarded electronics and when your not running the proper voltage things get screwed up quik. Im not a fan of Optimas but thats a killer setup. Dave where did you get the higher amp alternater?

I refuse to buy optima. I had a yellow top in my fj40 that went bad after 10 months. When I brought it back, I was informed that the warranty was from the date of manufacture stamped in a code on the side, not the date of purchase. When I called optima, I got the same story. Since the battery sat in a warehouse, and then on a store shelf forever, I was sol. Optima did offer me $20 off a new battery purchased from them, but shipping would have been just as much. I got a Kirkland deep cycle marine battery from costco. Its made by the same company which makes sears diehard. The warranty is better, has a higher amp rating, and is cheaper. Plus, myself, and many others I know have used the kirklands in our boats for many years, and they're a quality battery.

Long Haul wrote:

I gotta agree with Dave on this. These trucks have the most retarded electronics and when your not running the proper voltage things get screwed up quik. Im not a fan of Optimas but thats a killer setup. Dave where did you get the higher amp alternater?

Amfor(wrangler northwest power products).it was 700 and change with the charge kit.
240amps at speed 110 at idle?? i need to find the paperwork that came with the alt.for the low end numbers



and yes,i have changed out the radiator hoses for the new style hoses.

Yea I like the idea of the double battery set up. It's just a ton of money and not #1 priorty right now. Maybe next year.. I'm just gonna buy a good battery to get me through the winter for now if this one dies. The battery I have now in an interstate battery that has worked fine with the winching I have done and using my aux lights. It just doesnt hold a charge if the truck doesnt get used for more than a week.

im going to run a similar setup once i get everything that is broken fixed. i looked at the amfor alt's last time this convo came up and Tom Rowe said he would make all the fancy wires for me and seal em up nice all in 0 guage.

Brian I thought Kirkland was the wal mart brand? how is that at costco?

first i need to get my steering issue worked out, anyone know an ingenious way how to tell what the fuck is bent?

then im going to get a new xyz from rock auto. i had to take mine off again today it was full of water from running the A/C for an hour today and had gone into limp. I took it apart cleaned everything again, and used sealant all along the gasket. it is working again but i think the contacts in the switch are just too rusty to work correctly all the time because it was just filled with so much mud and water for so long. think im going to bite the bullet buy an xyz from rock auto and try and divert the drain away from the switch.

on a positive note the passenger hub is on thanks to Brett and his magical slide hammer/puller. That damn thing was way stuck and there was no way in hell i would have gotten that in my driveway.

for the first time since i bought the truck 3 years ago, there are no warning lights on the dash! woohoO!

Hilltoppersx wrote:

im going to run a similar setup once i get everything that is broken fixed. i looked at the amfor alt's last time this convo came up and Tom Rowe said he would make all the fancy wires for me and seal em up nice all in 0 guage.

Brian I thought Kirkland was the wal mart brand? how is that at costco?

first i need to get my steering issue worked out, anyone know an ingenious way how to tell what the fuck is bent?

then im going to get a new xyz from rock auto. i had to take mine off again today it was full of water from running the A/C for an hour today and had gone into limp. I took it apart cleaned everything again, and used sealant all along the gasket. it is working again but i think the contacts in the switch are just too rusty to work correctly all the time because it was just filled with so much mud and water for so long. think im going to bite the bullet buy an xyz from rock auto and try and divert the drain away from the switch.

on a positive note the passenger hub is on thanks to Brett and his magical slide hammer/puller. That damn thing was way stuck and there was no way in hell i would have gotten that in my driveway.

for the first time since i bought the truck 3 years ago, there are no warning lights on the dash! woohoO!

Nice glad to hear your truck works again.

Whats wrong with your steering?

something is bent. banged it up last time I was at rausch. steering wheel is turned 45° to the left now.

Does the truck still track straight, even though the wheel is turned, or does it dart left and right more than normal. If the drag link is bent, the steering wheel will just be off, but if the track rod is bent, your wheels will be toed out.

drag link it is. truck drives straight just wheel is turned.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

drag link it is. truck drives straight just wheel is turned.

Could also be panhard rod also..

Truck started up fine...

One of my $%*E tires was flat though ha

When i unlocked my truck the alarm light kept blinking and the head lights flashed multiple times... It was very strange and havent had a chance to look it up. Any ideas?



This week..
balance front drive shaft
lengthen trailing arms in the rear
swap bumpers with dale
get tires/rims/balance figured out so I dont have to keep losing air get truck registered and inspected
pick up TT locker
install shocks, mounts..
install cones, QT front diff guard (finally) weld exhaust if Brian can bring his welder here
Adjust swivel pin preload once I get shims from PT
install locker

hmmm what else do I need to do....

who did you end up getting the TT off?

if my diffs start to go i might as well put lockers in.

all you have to do next is take the damn thing off road so you can figure out where the weaknesses are after throwing your retirement fund at it.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

who did you end up getting the TT off?

if my diffs start to go i might as well put lockers in.

all you have to do next is take the damn thing off road so you can figure out where the weaknesses are after throwing your retirement fund at it.

Got the TT off a guy named Fred from dweb. He lives over in the doylestown area.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

who did you end up getting the TT off?

if my diffs start to go i might as well put lockers in.

all you have to do next is take the damn thing off road so you can figure out where the weaknesses are after throwing your retirement fund at it.

Wait till you go off road now that your traction control is working.

I know. I was talking to brett about last night. my first time I will be off road with traction control and cdl st the same time. he told me watery pump blew on his new rig fiver miles from his house. almost made it home! can't wait to see that truck perform

Jake do you have a 220v 50amp receptical at your house? My 110 welder bit the bullet yesterday.

Long Haul wrote:

Jake do you have a 220v 50amp receptical at your house? My 110 welder bit the bullet yesterday.

Yes sir I do.. However it is for my electric stove in the kitchen. How long is the power cord and do you have an extension?

Jake wrote:

Long Haul wrote:

Jake do you have a 220v 50amp receptical at your house? My 110 welder bit the bullet yesterday.

Yes sir I do.. However it is for my electric stove in the kitchen. How long is the power cord and do you have an extension?

I got a 25' extension cord and its got about 5-6' on the welder itself.

Long Haul wrote:

Jake wrote:

Long Haul wrote:

Jake do you have a 220v 50amp receptical at your house? My 110 welder bit the bullet yesterday.

Yes sir I do.. However it is for my electric stove in the kitchen. How long is the power cord and do you have an extension?

I got a 25' extension cord and its got about 5-6' on the welder itself.

Thats plenty. It will go right out the back door and off the porch. It's easier to work in the grass than the gravel and they just mowed a minute ago.

York Mack didnt have the attachment for the T-case side of the drive shaft so they couldnt balance it.

I'm going to try some RTE arms in the rear and they also suggested (rednecks) to try to balance it with hose clamps. Only problem is I dont think I have CAT clarence.. Tom woods here I come...