Your work list

replacing rear axle wheel bearings and removing stub axle seals. Going to do pads this weekend a long with wheel spacers in the rear to even out my trucks look.

All makes 4x4 VS National bearing from Advance Auto... (same part number)


This is what happens when your flanges arent sealed..


New race and bearing in.. getting ready to grease bearing and put hub grease seal back in


Removed stub axle seal so 90wt could lube bearings

where did u get wheel spacers from? and what size?

Hilltoppersx wrote:

where did u get wheel spacers from? and what size?

Randy 1.5's to match the set I got from ebay I have been running since what June?

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

where did u get wheel spacers from? and what size?

Randy 1.5's to match the set I got from ebay I have been running since what June?

oh. i didn't know u had wheel spacers in the front. last time i wheeled with you was when u bought the truck.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Jake wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

where did u get wheel spacers from? and what size?

Randy 1.5's to match the set I got from ebay I have been running since what June?

oh. i didn't know u had wheel spacers in the front. last time i wheeled with you was when u bought the truck.

I had them on the last pine barrens trip when you towed me up the turn pike

i got both my terrafirma track rod and tie rod on yesterday morning

here is a picture of my bent track rod next to the new terrafirma one.


here is the new tie rod installed. i cut the boot off the damper because it had a load of dirt trapped in there. think im better without it.

greased all my new zerk's on the tie rod ends, my drive shaft u joints and slip shaft and im starting to pack for ROTR. you can see my RoverBones diff guards on here as well. my truck looks rusty it's actually just Pine Barrens dirt.

Here is my weekend project cleaning up the mess the guy that installed my tires made on my rims

http://www.flickr.com/photos/50344424@N05/6318822619/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/50344424@N05/6318821243/in/photostream/

I think a metal shovel handle wouldve been a better choice there.


Did that straighten up your steering wheel now?

Long Haul wrote:

I think a metal shovel handle wouldve been a better choice there.


Did that straighten up your steering wheel now?

yes sir. straightened it up.

im thinking of mounting the hi-lift and my shovel on my roof rack. i figured out a way to do it with either quick fists or i have pipe hangers with large washers that i can insert thru the rack from udnerneath and use wing nuts with large washers to hold the jack down... will figure that out this week.

After looking at that pic Ed I wish my steering angles were half as good as yours. My arms are about at a 30* angle

SOOO this week was eventful..
Changed wheel bearings
removed axle seals
changed brake pads
installed front cone from scorpion racing (painted red for a minute)

Changing wheel bearings and taking axles seals out I managed to break a bolt off inside the axle housing. Tried to use an extractor, broke that. Drilled/chiseled the extractor out and then drilled for heli coil and the hole wasnt centered enough (FML). I should have took it to a shop the second I broke it but I was playing stubborned jewish dumb ass and fucked it up even more. SO this week it's taking a trip to UK motors to be looked at by Andrew and the guys see what they can do. I put it all back together and have been driving on it with no problems, it's not even leaking thru the gasket or hub seal like the other side is. Here's the damage!

I am guessing the only fix at this point is a thru bolt with a nut. I dont really care as long as it doesnt fall off lol


Changed my pads today. This is when I realized it's time for a new hub seal on the side that had a bad wheel bearing.

Here are the front cones. I need to get longer shocks I am pretty sure they are fully extended here and it's not radius arm bind. The inside of my shocks have been rubbing on something too and I cant figure it out it's really strange.

Jake is the shock stud binding on the bottom mount? My ProComps where hell for binding there thats why I ended up going with standard loop end shocks.

I got a whole rubbing shock issue Im trying to get figured out myself.

Long Haul wrote:

Jake is the shock stud binding on the bottom mount? My ProComps where hell for binding there thats why I ended up going with standard loop end shocks.

I got a whole rubbing shock issue Im trying to get figured out myself.

I think the rubbing is coming from the side to side when one wheel is under hard articulation. It doesnt make a noise and it's just barely rubbing the paint off the shock.

I dont have too much bind at the shock bushing. I think I could still get more out of it.. These bushings look way different that any other I have seen, they are short and much harder than other shock bushings.

I imagine I have the peg at a hard angle at full droop. I will probably go with this same set up again in the future though until I go crazy with 3 link then it will be loop and adjustable front towers.

Ed arms look good! I like the Tf damper without boot looks like my shocks now

the cover on the damper had held in a lot of dirt so i just cut it off.

i picked up two more of those heavy duty home depot totes. they are freaking great. hold like 500 lbs or something and are stackable with tie down points. not bad for $13. now i have 5 total.

tarp, tent, stakes, mallet
sleeping bags, pillows, blankets
recovery equipment, tools, spares, work blanket
stove, propane, cookware, utensils, plates, plasticware
dry food storage, not sure what else.

Ed, I just realized your steering stabilizer is backwards. The body should be on the lower side. I know with my SkyJacker it was night and day difference when I accidentally installed it like yours.

Long Haul wrote:

Ed, I just realized your steering stabilizer is backwards. The body should be on the lower side. I know with my SkyJacker it was night and day difference when I accidentally installed it like yours.

Wow. Didn't know that! The last one must have been in backwards as well!

At least its easy to flip around. I never knew that there was a top and bottom either till Justin told me last year at ROTR. My steering would always pull to one side and thats when we looked and noticed it backwards. I flipped it now it sorta drives straight now

It still doesn't drive straight - it's all in your head

Long Haul wrote:

At least its easy to flip around. I never knew that there was a top and bottom either till Justin told me last year at ROTR. My steering would always pull to one side and thats when we looked and noticed it backwards. I flipped it now it sorta drives straight now

It still doesn't drive straight - it's all in your head

Sorry I edited your post on accident with my moderator privileges.. Or was it a ghost?

Got my inspection done and finished painting my wheels. Ready for this weekend just need to figure out how my diff guard installs.

jveen wrote:

Got my inspection done and finished painting my wheels. Ready for this weekend just need to figure out how my diff guard installs.

RN Bolt on?

Take diff guard, attach to diff, tighten bolt.

Seriously though - take the bolt completely out take the open side and put around Panhard and then you should be able to get it around diff pan. Turn it, insert bolt, tighten bolt with man strength. Make sense at all?

[/quote]jveen wrote:
Got my inspection done and finished painting my wheels. Ready for this weekend just need to figure out how my diff guard installs.


RN Bolt on?

Take diff guard, attach to diff, tighten bolt. Very Happy

Seriously though - take the bolt completely out take the open side and put around Panhard and then you should be able to get it around diff pan. Turn it, insert bolt, tighten bolt with man strength. Make sense at all?

[quote]

So it just clamps on. I tried to fit on the front but Panhard was in the way and it was dark i'll try in the morning.

jveen wrote:

jveen wrote:
Got my inspection done and finished painting my wheels. Ready for this weekend just need to figure out how my diff guard installs.


RN Bolt on?

Take diff guard, attach to diff, tighten bolt. Very Happy

Seriously though - take the bolt completely out take the open side and put around Panhard and then you should be able to get it around diff pan. Turn it, insert bolt, tighten bolt with man strength. Make sense at all?

Quote :

So it just clamps on. I tried to fit on the front but Panhard was in the way and it was dark i'll try in the morning.

Text or call if you can't figure it out. It's a bitch to get around Panhard but is possible..

Jake wrote:

Long Haul wrote:

At least its easy to flip around. I never knew that there was a top and bottom either till Justin told me last year at ROTR. My steering would always pull to one side and thats when we looked and noticed it backwards. I flipped it now it sorta drives straight now

It still doesn't drive straight - it's all in your head

Sorry I edited your post on accident with my moderator privileges.. Or was it a ghost?

LOL I didnt think I wrote that. If my rear axle was square with the frame it would drive straight. Im about to pull that Xeng setup I have off and just get johnny joints. Even with blue Loctite and a 3' pipe wrench on the jam nut they still keep working loose, I might put a couple tack welds on it once I get it squared up again.

just ordered some rockware sliders with steps, not really nerfs they don't stick out that far just the width of the slider itself. $538 with shipping. can't beat the price. they will be here next week. sucks i wont have them for rotr but i had to wait for my insurance check to come in. also got my mirror for my daily driver. going to put that on now.