Work List 2012

Custom fabbed some roof rack brackets to mount Hella 4000's. Mounted rewired and connected the 4000's to my BrownChruch rack.

Removed Hella 1000's from the rack and installed them on the front bumper. Wired them to the stock fog light switch. Need to order new 1000's, they are old and fogged up but are fine for now.

Couldn't find any H1 100w bulbs for the 4000's around here so just popped some 55w bulbs in for now. Seems bright enough anyway

Pics or it didn't happen

The 1000's were discontinued, and replaced by the 700ff. I have a stone cover for a 1000 on my 700ff. They're the same size.

That looks like. Copy/paste error to me. What's a 1000bachelor?
Where do you get 100w bulbs. I'd like to up my wattage. Although. Until someone gets me a roof rack I have no where to put therm

Fixed. The autocorrect on my phone acts all wacky when replying to forum posts.

Turf wrote:

Pics or it didn't happen

Brackets


All done:


Seems the 1000's have a crosshair going on

durt d1ver wrote:

The 1000's were discontinued, and replaced by the 700ff. I have a stone cover for a 1000 on my 700ff. They're the same size.

Thanks for the info

Work from Tom Woods is the CV in my front shaft did have some play in it. Was probably on it's way out. Today I FINALLY set aside the time to change out my manifolds and manifold gaskets since I found them to be cracked at Rausch Creek. I have a ton of fun upcoming projects.. I wrote it all down on paper cause I am extremely A.D.D. - a "plan" for attacking gears, 3-link and other random shittttt

1. Need to tighten up rubber coupling on steering rod - found that loose while doing manifold today. Going to also add some preload to steering box -it's needed for sure.

2. Finish up Dyna beads in the rear tires, adding the new TF wheel spacers in rear

3. Install 3rd gen 19# Ford injectors

4. Remove front diff, rebuild with reverse cut GBR 4.11, check swivel preload and install new brake hardward kit. Going to have to weld a diff guard on the front because the 3-link has a track rod protector and mounts to the two diff bolts. - Reinstall with rebuild TW drive shaft

5. Remove rear diff, rebuild with 4.11 Ashcroft, change out old rusty leaky stub shaft, reinstall and gears are done.

6. 3-link install begins! I wish I didnt have to wait to do the front diff before I install this. It is going to be sitting there staring me in the face while I do all this other B.S.

Stay tuned I have some other fun plans that may consist of 35's longer shocks and more madness... I'll post some pics of the re-gearing and 3-linkage during install

Friday i got the diff fluids changed on the rangie, drained the pass side swivel ball filled it with grease, banged out a dent in the roof and redid the headliner, also took the LED's out of my disco and put them in the rangie, will need to order 3 more LEDs to put in the Disco. they are so freaking bright in my rangie it's awesome. I ordered some carpeted mats from Paul Grant for the rangie and also got some Hella headlights with bulbs and a couple of Rangie black wheel center caps. $85 shipped. he's awesome. i need to find grey d2 cup holders for the rangie, drain the driver side swivel ball and fill it with grease, get the PS leak sorted, and install the new stepper motor thats coming on Wednesday, and get it inspected later this week.

here is a pic of the painted headliner.

what type of grease do you use in the swivels? I need to do that, and everyone says, "00" but im not sure where to get that

Turf wrote:

what type of grease do you use in the swivels? I need to do that, and everyone says, "00" but im not sure where to get that

AMSOIL makes some, you can find it anywhere that has a big lawnmower selection... or you can use a few ounces heavy gear oil and top it off with regular disc brake safe ball joint grease. i used valvoline.

so like a home depot or loewes might have it?

Turf wrote:

what type of grease do you use in the swivels? I need to do that, and everyone says, "00" but im not sure where to get that

Your balls won't hold gear oil?

they do, too well i think, my balls havent been serviced in 92k (to my knowledge). So i imagine all the fluid in my balls is proabbly chunky and in need of purging.

Turf wrote:

they do, too well i think, my balls havent been serviced in 92k (to my knowledge). So i imagine all the fluid in my balls is proabbly chunky and in need of purging.

Or they are empty. Mine got 140w couple weeks ago cause I had some left over. Go oil so you can change it after wading

im just worried with oil it might be one more thing that'll leak on the street. not that it's my driveway. I live in the city so it's always public streets i leak in, haha. Can i use 85/140? I have some of that laying around

the oil is good if you are going to be wading in the truck, because you will have to change it regularly. im putting grease in my rangie because it's a street queen and wont leak as badly with the grease. 85/140 is good yeah.

it drains and fills a lot easier at full lock, is that right?

Turf wrote:

it drains and fills a lot easier at full lock, is that right?

the wheel you are filling you want it turned out full lock in that direction. filling the pass side should be full lock right, filling driver side should be full lock left

Got a set of GBR stage 2 cv's, axles, flanges and spindles on the way as well picked up off a guy on d-90. Will be moving some stuff around in the "garage" mostly the engine that I will be trading Brian for parts he wont need post coil-overs and will start to take my truck apart maybe even as soon as tomorrow. Diffs coming out and axles coming apart.

Having ignition probs with the classic. Cant get the IACV valve error to go away. Which means the cel is on. Which means it wont pass inspection. Going to have fun this weekend.

Removed old disintegrated rear subs and swapped the speakers from my car into the LR, amazing! What a difference, there is actually bass coming from my back door

Should be ordering tires here in the near future, since I planned on running 235/85's I'll most likely get these:

https://treadwright.com/p-28-235-85r16-crawler-m-t-e.aspx

No guard dogs in 235/85 yet, maybe they will have them by the time my tax return gets here.

Started stripping down my front axle, got the passanger side torn down to the axle housing, and just pulled the whole drivers side assembly so I could get the diff out.. check out what the ring gear on my front diff looked like



The passanger side CV also had a little bit of play in it but it wasnt terrible. All of the splines on the axle looked pretty straight but the diff is only a Truetrac and it's only turning 32's for now

All of my gears, bearings, axles, drive shaft etc should be here on Monday and Tuesday so hopefully I will have it all together and be able to start the 3-link by the middle or end of next week... exciting times my friends!

that disco i got for free got traded to Paul Grant for parts. I got a roof, door, set of TVR rims and d2 grey cupholders for my Rangie, have to go pick up everything but the cupholders when it gets a little warmer. Saturday i wanted to pull the power steering pump on the rangie but its supposed to rain now... been driving the d2 to work every day. thing runs great.

Ripped all of the carpet out other then over the trans tunnel (just got lazy an cut around the console). Gotta pull all the plastic trim pieces off then its time for Lizardskin insulation and sound deadener. Didnt find to much rust so it shouldnt take me too long to get it done.