Work List 2012

nice! you keeping the seats out? did i start a trend?

In the process of selling my KM2's and thwn I will be headed off to Jersey to pick up a set of 35x12.5 MTR's on 15" steel rims time to get out the saw!! Also found a spare on ebay so I am going to need a spare 15x8 rim if anybody has one they will sell.

Also in the process of finding a set of hubs that will work with the HD 2522 1 ton cv's and axles I got. I think Randy has a pair - gonna go see if they will fit on Saturday after I pick up my new tires.

Here's my list as of right now..

get gears in front diff
reinstall rebuild Tom Woods
get axles all put back together, preload has already been tightened up a bit
Finish installing fox shocks in rear
take it for a test drive with new diff in just to make sure all is well
get rear diff regeard and leaky stub axle replaced
install 3 link and test out to see what shock lengths I should go with - Will need to trim to stuff new tires and figure out what I will need for bump stops.
Install shocks, wedges in front, RTE towers and lower mounts
see how it sits with wedges and maybe add an extra 1" in the rear
install 19# ford fuel injectors and fix a leaking heater hose

andddddddd then I will be done for, I SWEAR

jake u puttin in the Gen II or Gen III injectors?

Hilltoppersx wrote:

nice! you keeping the seats out? did i start a trend?

Depends if I can squeeze one in there with roll cage.

Long Haul wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

nice! you keeping the seats out? did i start a trend?

Depends if I can squeeze one in there with roll cage.

you doing an internal cage?

Hilltoppersx wrote:

Long Haul wrote:

Hilltoppersx wrote:

nice! you keeping the seats out? did i start a trend?

Depends if I can squeeze one in there with roll cage.

you doing an internal cage?

Yup. Between cage an coilovers theres gonna be limited realestate back there. I'm gonna try to fit the wider of the 2 seats in there.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

jake u puttin in the Gen II or Gen III injectors?

gen 3's, I know I know they dont have a slot for the useless clip - who cares

Added two more Hella 500 black magic lights to the rack (4 total now), replaced my battery with an Optima yellow top, hard wired electric for the CB (no more cig lighter danglers). She's coming along. Taking this friday off to do the rotoflex conversion. started this thing three times already, time to actually finish the damn job. Just leaves me with the TC swap and CDL shifter install. oh, and need to find a welder to put my Rover Bones diff guards on.

Well the gears are on hold - gonna order a set of carrier bearings for the front one since the old diff came out with a funky wear pattern and the first couple of patterns I rolled on the new gears looked good on one side and not so good on the other side. Going to start front scratch with new bearings when they get here.

I picked up a set of 35x12.50" mtr's with rims on Sunday here's a pic test fitting on my truck. A lot of cutting and a set of fender flares are in my near future.



Also getting a set of fox shocks for the front - ordered some new mounts for the rear and turning my rear mounts into front mounts which should work out pretty well. Sending back the Defender 110 HD axles I bought from that guy and picking up a set of longfields that will bolt right in which will save me from current and future pains in the ass.

Looks like the weather will be good this week to finish painting my bumper, only had it sitting since x-mas. Fitting the winch and getting that on changing my oil. Also trying to find a metal fabrication shop close to home so I can get a set of sliders fabbed up.
And putting on the new to me 2 inch spacers

-I am hopefully picking up that set of Rover Bones diff guards on Sunday, so I will probably be zapping them on the same day.

-I need to change rear diff fluid.

-I think I may want to put new/better sway bar links on. I don't have a tall lift, but they look slightly off and are worn anyway. Do any of you use a sway bar disconnect, if so, which one works well? I want to keep the sway bar on, but would like to be able to take them out on the dirt.

-Gotta drop my rig off at the dealership to have noise in front end looked at and hope that my warranty people don't bust my balls about my 1.5" lift. I am getting a slight popping/clunking noise occasionally when taking off from a stop. I looked at driveshaft and all seems ok there. It may be my sway bar links, but don't think so.

-The other awesome thing I get to do, is drop my headliner and clean out drains for sunroofs. I am sooo done with wet carpet under my floormat.

-I'd like to get rocker guards as well.

-Lastly, I want to run two cables from battery to the rear trailer receiver area to power a receiver mounted winch. At least I'll have that option, even if I have to keep it strapped in the trunk.

That is all......for now.

SPAS12 wrote:

-I am hopefully picking up that set of Rover Bones diff guards on Sunday, so I will probably be zapping them on the same day.

-I need to change rear diff fluid.

-I think I may want to put new/better sway bar links on. I don't have a tall lift, but they look slightly off and are worn anyway. Do any of you use a sway bar disconnect, if so, which one works well? I want to keep the sway bar on, but would like to be able to take them out on the dirt.

-Gotta drop my rig off at the dealership to have noise in front end looked at and hope that my warranty people don't bust my balls about my 1.5" lift. I am getting a slight popping/clunking noise occasionally when taking off from a stop. I looked at driveshaft and all seems ok there. It may be my sway bar links, but don't think so.

-The other awesome thing I get to do, is drop my headliner and clean out drains for sunroofs. I am sooo done with wet carpet under my floormat.

-I'd like to get rocker guards as well.

-Lastly, I want to run two cables from battery to the rear trailer receiver area to power a receiver mounted winch. At least I'll have that option, even if I have to keep it strapped in the trunk.

That is all......for now.

I've got the Slickrock Fab quick disconnect sways, they're pretty sweet and super easy to install and use. Pulled the rears off completely. I drive up and down 95 everyday to work from Wilm DE to PHL, never notice the absence of rear sways. Drove once with the fronts disconnected, won't do that again.

Sounds like the clunking sound coming off a stop could be the rear shaft, thats what mine does, but the '04 might be built differently. I get the same thing if I'm coasting then hit the gas... i can press and release the gas pedal quickly and make it thunk at will. Doing a rotoflex conversion this friday to fix that.

I completely removed my sways. The only time my truck sees a highway for more than 5 miles, is heading to Rausch.

As for running cables to the rear, use welding cable, theyre more flexible, and will handle the power. You might want to consider encasing the wires in flexible pvc conduit for extra protection in places.

durt d1ver wrote:

As for running cables to the rear, use welding cable, theyre more flexible, and will handle the power. You might want to consider encasing the wires in flexible pvc conduit for extra protection in places.

X2

My rack makes all kinds of noise when I hit bumps in the road so I pulled my rack back off, spent hrs removing the old powdercoating by hand that I didn't get off last time. Sprayed with 2 coats of primer. Now I think Im going to spray it with some 3m rubber coating with sound det. Hopefully that stops it from making noise. Its annoying.

Anyone every use that rubber coating stuff? Think it will help with noise? I think since it had so much PC missing it started to rattle. I guess come this weekend when I spray it I will find out.

My guess is rattle has nothing to do with powder coat. It's all joints. Welds. Feet. Unions. Anywhere metal meets metal and is joined. If that stuff isn't super tight then you're gonna get rattling. Tighten everything down. Might need to touch up some welds too.

Turf wrote:

My guess is rattle has nothing to do with powder coat. It's all joints. Welds. Feet. Unions. Anywhere metal meets metal and is joined. If that stuff isn't super tight then you're gonna get rattling. Tighten everything down. Might need to touch up some welds too.

Put som rubber between gutter clamps if it's a one piece rack that's my bet

LockenDIFF wrote:

My rack makes all kinds of noise when I hit bumps in the road so I pulled my rack back off, spent hrs removing the old powdercoating by hand that I didn't get off last time. Sprayed with 2 coats of primer. Now I think Im going to spray it with some 3m rubber coating with sound det. Hopefully that stops it from making noise. Its annoying.

Anyone every use that rubber coating stuff? Think it will help with noise? I think since it had so much PC missing it started to rattle. I guess come this weekend when I spray it I will find out.

are you talking about spray 3m rubberized undercoating? that is no good for the rack. it will go soft with the summer sun and melt all over your truck.

durt d1ver wrote:

I completely removed my sways. The only time my truck sees a highway for more than 5 miles, is heading to Rausch.

As for running cables to the rear, use welding cable, theyre more flexible, and will handle the power. You might want to consider encasing the wires in flexible pvc conduit for extra protection in places.

I am on it, in regards to the bigger gauge cable. My 8274 has thick ass welding cable on it. I haven't looked, but I think it may be expensive to get it in the length I need, or maybe set it up in two separate runs linked together?

I definetely want to keep my sway bar connected, this is my main driver and I go out of state a good bit, as well as pulling my trailers with it. I will look into those above and get a setup. My trail Jeeps don't even know what a sway bar is.

Hilltoppersx wrote:

LockenDIFF wrote:

My rack makes all kinds of noise when I hit bumps in the road so I pulled my rack back off, spent hrs removing the old powdercoating by hand that I didn't get off last time. Sprayed with 2 coats of primer. Now I think Im going to spray it with some 3m rubber coating with sound det. Hopefully that stops it from making noise. Its annoying.

Anyone every use that rubber coating stuff? Think it will help with noise? I think since it had so much PC missing it started to rattle. I guess come this weekend when I spray it I will find out.

are you talking about spray 3m rubberized undercoating? that is no good for the rack. it will go soft with the summer sun and melt all over your truck.

Good to know, now I'll just repaint and go from there and see what happens. Feet were tight but If I banged on it it rattles. May be right on needing some touch up welds. Maybe a good reason to hit up HF for a small welder.

SPAS12 wrote:

durt d1ver wrote:

I completely removed my sways. The only time my truck sees a highway for more than 5 miles, is heading to Rausch.

As for running cables to the rear, use welding cable, theyre more flexible, and will handle the power. You might want to consider encasing the wires in flexible pvc conduit for extra protection in places.

I am on it, in regards to the bigger gauge cable. My 8274 has thick ass welding cable on it. I haven't looked, but I think it may be expensive to get it in the length I need, or maybe set it up in two separate runs linked together?

I definetely want to keep my sway bar connected, this is my main driver and I go out of state a good bit, as well as pulling my trailers with it. I will look into those above and get a setup. My trail Jeeps don't even know what a sway bar is.

Welding cable is stupid expensive these days. I have some left over but I bought like 15 or 25 feet all I know is I spent 60 something bucks..

Dave call Justin and get poly bushes for sway bars.

Well got my rear diff done going to pick up a tool this evening to get bearings off old carrier http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

Here's some pics of rear diff set up
bolting new Ashcroft ring gear to Detroit locker



Pinion height stayed same as stock, took a ton of shims to get pinion preload correct. set backlash to 7.5 thou and this is where it ended up



Also got some 10" Fox Emulsion 2.0 shocks in today.. these are for the front. Had a little issue with fitting it on upper mount so I trimmed the top mounts a bit. Here is some pics of all of that..







Hopefully will have front diff finished tonight or tomorrow. Just waiting for axles and CV's from Keith and then it's all going back together hopefully this weekend.

Placed an order on a set of Flexi Flares the ones that dont stick out as much. Justin had to import them but they should be here in next couple weeks.

SPAS12 wrote:

-I am hopefully picking up that set of Rover Bones diff guards on Sunday, so I will probably be zapping them on the same day.

-I need to change rear diff fluid.

-I think I may want to put new/better sway bar links on. I don't have a tall lift, but they look slightly off and are worn anyway. Do any of you use a sway bar disconnect, if so, which one works well? I want to keep the sway bar on, but would like to be able to take them out on the dirt.

-Gotta drop my rig off at the dealership to have noise in front end looked at and hope that my warranty people don't bust my balls about my 1.5" lift. I am getting a slight popping/clunking noise occasionally when taking off from a stop. I looked at driveshaft and all seems ok there. It may be my sway bar links, but don't think so.

-The other awesome thing I get to do, is drop my headliner and clean out drains for sunroofs. I am sooo done with wet carpet under my floormat.

-I'd like to get rocker guards as well.

-Lastly, I want to run two cables from battery to the rear trailer receiver area to power a receiver mounted winch. At least I'll have that option, even if I have to keep it strapped in the trunk.

That is all......for now.

TJ sway bar disconects will work if thats any help.

Long Haul wrote:

SPAS12 wrote:

-I am hopefully picking up that set of Rover Bones diff guards on Sunday, so I will probably be zapping them on the same day.

-I need to change rear diff fluid.

-I think I may want to put new/better sway bar links on. I don't have a tall lift, but they look slightly off and are worn anyway. Do any of you use a sway bar disconnect, if so, which one works well? I want to keep the sway bar on, but would like to be able to take them out on the dirt.

-Gotta drop my rig off at the dealership to have noise in front end looked at and hope that my warranty people don't bust my balls about my 1.5" lift. I am getting a slight popping/clunking noise occasionally when taking off from a stop. I looked at driveshaft and all seems ok there. It may be my sway bar links, but don't think so.

-The other awesome thing I get to do, is drop my headliner and clean out drains for sunroofs. I am sooo done with wet carpet under my floormat.

-I'd like to get rocker guards as well.

-Lastly, I want to run two cables from battery to the rear trailer receiver area to power a receiver mounted winch. At least I'll have that option, even if I have to keep it strapped in the trunk.

That is all......for now.

TJ sway bar disconects will work if thats any help.

Awesome, I was gonna ask for a measurement of the links so that I could see if some Jeep ones will work. That saved me the trouble, thanks.

Jake, slow down man, you're making the rest of us look bad. Can't wait to check it out when it's done.

Got dirt and rust in my eyes stealing the speed sensor off Jakes truck. Friiday to the exhaust shop for cat install. Make a trip up to emission for the obdII test, hopefully the cat's work and Im check engine light free. Tires soon to follow.